Today i decided to lunge Spice and loose jump her over a cross pole. One brilliant thing about Spice is that she is so forward going you only have to say the word 'trot' and she does it and continues to do it until you ask her to stop.
Movement wise she is looking even better than she did yesterday showing a lot more impulsion and balance so i think her hooves are going from strength to strength - she's definitely not foot sore or lame anymore!
Indy showed me how to lunge her in long reins so i might have a go at that tomorrow as i think Spice prefers it and it seems to help her round up a bit.
When it came to loose jumping Spice in the lunge line over the cross poles i actually didn't realize i'd managed to get her in the right position and so asked her to stop but just as i muttered the words 'whoa' the jump was before her and from a trot she jumped without me even asking her to. :)
She looks so sweet when she jumps i will try and video her next time i get her to do it.
It may be all in my mind but i think the feed i'm giving her at the moment is having great effects...
Top Chop Lite
* An unadulterated, natural product made from alfalfa, oat straw, a light dressing of soya oil and real mint. It is ideal for good-doers that need their weight controlling.
* Contains no molasses or any other sugar coating.
* Exceptionally low in sugar and starch (including fructans).
* Non-Heating.
* The alfalfa provides a natural source of anti-oxidants.
* Dust-extracted.
* Contains no preservatives or artificial additives or colourings.
* Non-GM formula.
Aswell as this i am also feeding Spice Speedi Beet
* Unmolassed - 95% SUGAR FREE
* Ideal Fibre source for horses prone to laminitis - low sugar/high fibre
* A Laminitis Trust approved feed
* Rapid re-hydration
* Non-heating
* Slow release energy
* Excellent complementary feedstuff to hard feed
* Extremely palatable
* Unique patented processing allows release of nutrients prior to hind gut fermentation
And last but not least the magic formula 4 feet which has so many amazing ingredients, vitamins and nutrients that i can't even begin to list them!
Monday 31 May 2010
Sunday 30 May 2010
144. Lunging...
After 8 weeks of practically doing nothing but small bits of groundwork and long reining i am finally able to start lunging Spice again.:)
I started 3 days ago in 5 minute stints and am just making my way up to a full ten minutes. Interestingly she is reluctant to go anti-clockwise which is probably because she is still a bit stiff and weak in her hind hoof which still has a chunk of sole and wall missing due to the abscess but within 4 weeks that should have grown back and she will be a lot more comfortable.
She's very good at lunging - very energetic in both trot and canter and even jumped over a traffic cone that happened to be in her way - she loves jumping!
When the chiropractor came to see her the other day the first thing she said mentioned was how good her conformation was and what a great eventer she would make which i was quite pleased about as having done next to nothing with her i was worried she'd lost a bit of condition.
My friends daughter has come back from Uni now to start working with her young horse (Mags) which is great because seeing other people do things with their horses really inspires me and Indy is annoyingly confident and capable - even though she doesn't see Mags for weeks you'd think she'd seen her every day the way Mags responds to her - must take tips from Indy.
As Spice is on the mend i am thinking about buying one more jump for the arena since this seems to be her forte but i may have to hold off for a few weeks and re-coop some money first!
I started 3 days ago in 5 minute stints and am just making my way up to a full ten minutes. Interestingly she is reluctant to go anti-clockwise which is probably because she is still a bit stiff and weak in her hind hoof which still has a chunk of sole and wall missing due to the abscess but within 4 weeks that should have grown back and she will be a lot more comfortable.
She's very good at lunging - very energetic in both trot and canter and even jumped over a traffic cone that happened to be in her way - she loves jumping!
When the chiropractor came to see her the other day the first thing she said mentioned was how good her conformation was and what a great eventer she would make which i was quite pleased about as having done next to nothing with her i was worried she'd lost a bit of condition.
My friends daughter has come back from Uni now to start working with her young horse (Mags) which is great because seeing other people do things with their horses really inspires me and Indy is annoyingly confident and capable - even though she doesn't see Mags for weeks you'd think she'd seen her every day the way Mags responds to her - must take tips from Indy.
As Spice is on the mend i am thinking about buying one more jump for the arena since this seems to be her forte but i may have to hold off for a few weeks and re-coop some money first!
Friday 28 May 2010
143. “If you hear hooves, think horses not zebras”
I heard this quote today and really agree with it. :)
142. Polysaccharide storage myopathy (PSSM)
Today, my friends chiropractor came out to visit Spice as i was planning on riding her this weekend so just wanted to make sure that her back was o.k before i did but unfortunately she is a bit sore so i think i'll have to stick to just lunging her until the soreness subsides.
The chiropractor mentioned the possibility that it could be due to a condition called Polysaccharide storage myopathy (PSSM). However, it seems to be incredibly rare given the following article:
'A new test for a debilitating genetic muscular condition is now available in the UK and owners of horses predisposed to the condition are being urged to have them tested.
Polysaccharide storage myopathy (PSSM) is most prevalent in American draught breeds, paints, quarter horses and Appaloosas. Horses affected by the condition show signs of tying-up — muscle stiffness, sweating and a reluctance to move. PSSM is thought to be caused by an abnormally rapid uptake of glucose from the bloodstream.
Dr Stephanie Valberg of Minnesota University has carried out research into the condition. She told H&H: "I believe horses used for breeding or being considered for purchase, who show signs of muscle disease, should be tested for PSSM."
Until 2008, the only method of testing was via a muscle biopsy, but Minnesota University has developed a simple DNA test.
The research has also revealed that PSSM is passed on genetically via a dominant gene.
British Appaloosa Society chairman Brian Entwhistle said that PSSM is not yet an issue in the UK. He has been breeding Appaloosas for 40 years and has never had a horse with the condition. But he advocated testing for any genetic disease if a test is available.
"We don't want any disease being propagated within our gene pool," he said. "If there is any problem, I would expect all breeders to test their animals. I hope people will be open if there are diseases we should test."
Appaloosa breeder Alex McEachern said she has not experienced PSSM in 20 years of business, but wouldn't object to a buyer testing her horses.
But she added: "If it is a problem in America, might it not be a good idea to test breeding stallions before they can be licensed to breed in this country?"
To test for the disease send hair samples to the University of Minnesota Diagnostic Laboratory. Forms and contact information are available at http://www.vdl.umn.edu/vdl/ourservices/neuromuscular.html, or ask your vet to send a sample to the Royal Veterinary College in North Mymms, Herts. Testing of hair and root samples costs approximately £100 and a hair-only test is £43.'
So, i have to say i am a little doubtful of the prognosis but then again i haven't spent years training as a back specialist!
Below is another article i found on the condition:
Equine polysaccharide storage myopathy (EPSM) is a form of rhabdomyolysis classified as a metabolic disease that results in the accumulation of high muscle glycogen and abnormal polysaccharide in skeletal muscles.
The occurrence has presently been documented in Quarter horses, American Paint Horses, Quarterhorse crosses, warmbloods, draft horses and draft crosses. Presently, EPSM is believed to be transmitted as an autosomal recessive disorder with mares being more frequently diagnosed than geldings. Geldings may be more commonly affected with non-diagnosed clinical cases.
Horses that are affected generally are referred to as having a calm demeanor and being heavily muscled. Signs often occur 10-20 minutes after light work in 2-4 year olds starting training, but signs can also occur at any stage of life. The episodes may occur once or twice a year to every time the horse is exercised. A common complaint is that horses are exercise intolerant, especially at high speeds. In mild cases, horses show a tucked up abdomen, muscle fasiciculations in the flank, and a camped-out stance. If exercise is continued, profuse sweating, front and hindlimb gait asymmetry, and reluctance to move are seen. In severe cases, horses may refuse to move forward, buck and lie down to avoid exercise. When returned to the stall they may show signs of colic, such as rolling or pawing.
PSSM is a muscle disease in horses with Quarter Horse bloodlines such as Quarter Horses, American Paint Horses and Appaloosas. The American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) has funded research into this disease since 1995 and has provided us with the opportunity to learn much about the diagnosis, cause and treatment for this disease.
Another form of polysaccharide storage myopathy also occurs in Draft, Draft crossbreeds, warmbloods. Many of the clinical signs in these breeds differ from those found in Quarter Horses and related breeds. The signs found in Draft, Draft crossbreeds, and warmbloods include muscle soreness, reluctance to engage the hind quarters, muscle atrophy, weakness, difficulty in backing up, and picking up hind feet.
Whether this disease exists in other breeds is controversial. Research from our laboratory suggests that there are several causes for tying-up. Most racing Quarter Horses, Thoroughbreds, Standardbreds and Arabians with tying-up, suffer from a separate disease from PSSM called recurrent exertional rhabdomyolysis (see RER information). In these breeds of horses, the accumulation of abnormal polysaccharide, the hallmark of PSSM, is rarely if ever present.
Several different acronyms have been used to describe this disorder including PSSM, EPSM and EPSSM. The variety of acronyms used are in part related to preferences of different laboratories, as well as to differences in the criteria used to diagnose polysaccharide storage myopathy. Many light breeds of horses, various draft breeds, ponies, warmblood breeds, and mules are reported to have PSSM when amylase-sensitive glycogen is used as a diagnostic criterion for PSSM. These criteria result in up to 80% of Draft horses and 33% of all horses outside of draft and Quarter Horse bloodlines being diagnosed with PSSM.
Polysaccharide storage myopathy (PSSM) is characterized by the abnormal accumulation of the normal form of sugar stored in muscle (glycogen) as well as an abnormal form of sugar (polysaccharide) in muscle tissue. About 200 horses of Quarter Horse and warmblood/draft horse breeding have been identified with tying-up associated with polysaccharide accumulation in muscles. This disorder is inherited in Quarter Horses and breeding individuals with PSSM has produced affected offspring.
Horses with PSSM accumulate muscle glycogen due to an unregulated uptake of sugar (glucose) into their muscles and the synthesis of its storage from in the muscle called glycogen. One aspect of the defect involves enhanced sensitivity of the muscles to insulin, resulting in more transport of sugar from the bloodstream to skeletal muscle. The diet can be adjusted to decrease the amount of insulin and sugar in the bloodstream. Carbohydrates that are high in starch, such as sweet feed, corn, wheat, oats, barley, and molasses, should be avoided and extra calories can be provided in the form of fat. An important part of the management of PSSM horses is daily exercise. This suppresses glucose uptake, enhances glucose utilization, and improves energy metabolism in skeletal muscle. If only the diet is changed, we found that approximately 50% of horses improve. If both diet and exercise are altered, then 90% of horses have had no or few episodes of tying-up.
An old theory about tying-up is that it is due to too much lactic acid in the muscle. Many exercise studies have proven that this is absolutely not the case with PSSM. PSSM is actually a glycogen storage disease and there are several diseases in other species and in human beings that also result in the storage of too much glycogen in skeletal muscle. In these other diseases, glycogen accumulates because the muscle lacks an enzyme (protein) necessary to burn glycogen as an energy source. These similarities led us to test PSSM horses for the disorders in glycogen metabolism identified in human beings. We found that PSSM is a unique glycogen storage disease because the PSSM horses have all the necessary enzymes to burn glycogen as a fuel in their muscles. With exercise, PSSM horses show the expected decrease in muscle glycogen as it is burned as fuel.
The unique feature of PSSM is that the muscle cells in PSSM horses remove sugar from the blood stream and transported into their muscle at a faster rate, and make more glycogen than normal horses. Our recent research shows that the reason for this is that PSSM muscles are very sensitive to insulin beginning as early as 6 months of age. Insulin is a hormone released by the pancreas into the bloodstream in response to a carbohydrate meal. It stimulates the muscle to take up sugar from the bloodstream. Once inside the cell the muscle’s of PSSM horses make much more glycogen than a normal horse.
The bits i have highlighted in bold are the symptoms Spice does NOT have so again i am not convinced that she has this condition.
But something is causing her to be sore (although two weeks ago according to another chiropractor she was only slightly sore around her withers?!?!)
The other thing about this condition that strikes me as odd is the fact that oil is suggested to be the only cure for it but where in the wild would a horse have access to a pint of oil or more each day?
As always i find two professionals in the horse world who seem to offer very different thoughts, opinions and advice so i have the usual dilemma of who to believe.
If i am completely honest i still think Spices hooves are at the root of the problem...below is an article which sheds some more light on this...
Low Heel/High Heel Syndrome
Unrecognized Problems
by Dr. Kerry J. Ridgway, DVM
The commonly observed condition where the heel of one front foot is higher than the other has ramifications that extend beyond the effects on the foot itself. This condition is also observed in the hind feet, though less frequently. However, because of limitations and scope, this paper will direct its attention primarily to the front feet.
How to best deal with the condition has remained a ‘hot topic’ among farriers. It is the aim of this paper to explore the often unrecognized ramifications in creating muscle imbalance, and changes in posture that result in loss of performance and are a potential source of lameness. It is necessary to explore how the syndrome alters the shape of the back and the consequences such changes create in being able to properly fit a saddle. The posture of the horse that results affects not only saddle placement but also alters the rider’s balance.
Awareness of the many issues came to me about 12 years ago via Moses Gonzales, journeyman farrier, when he demonstrated the effects that low heel/high heel syndrome had on the horse’s posture. Farriers and veterinarians, all too often, counter Gonzales’ observations with skepticism or antagonism. Healthy skepticism is always appropriate, so let us examine the issues on their merits.
In my career as a veterinarian specializing in muscle tension, imbalance and symmetry, I deal daily with performance issues, saddle related problems, shoeing related problems and back pain. These problems constitute as much as 90% of my practice. That has afforded me ample opportunity to observe the relationship of high heel/low heel conditions on a first hand basis. I believe that antagonism needs to be challenged and skepticism addressed. At the very least, this subject needs to be revisited with an open mind.
Let us first discuss the overall postural deviations that are a direct consequence of the lower of the two heels. It should be clarified at this point that it is not the intent to address a true ‘clubfoot’. This paper is not addressing an anatomically ‘short leg’ syndrome (though to a cursory evaluation, the limb with the lower heel may give the appearance of a shorter leg).
The lower heel creates obvious changes in the joint angles at the pastern, fetlock, elbow and scapula-humeral joint (shoulder joint). Compared to the limb with the higher heel, the angles on the low-heeled limb will open (get larger), and the limb will become more vertical than its counterpart throughout its length. The pastern joints and fetlock will be placed in more extension (and possible subluxation). The elbow angle will be more open. As the shoulder opens, the ‘point’ of the shoulder will be moved caudally so its position is farther back than on the higher heeled limb. The position of the scapula becomes altered so that it also becomes more vertical. This verticality creates a bulging of the shoulder and over-development of the associated muscles on the lower-heeled limb.
Observe that the horse has a marked tendency to lean on the shoulder of the lower heeled limb. This may leave some observers to conclude that the measurements that are to be described are ‘off’ only because the horse is leaning on that shoulder, and that if one pushes the horse to an equal weight bearing, the measurements tend to even up. However, this point must be addressed and clarified. We must answer why, given a choice, does the horse choose to lean on that shoulder? It is because of the difference in heel height that the horse returns to leaning on the shoulder of the low-heeled side when allowed to do so. I feel that this is the posture that the horse seeks as compensation.
Commence assessment of the forelimbs by observing the horse’s posture, its joint positions and angles from several directions. To have meaning, the horse must be on a flat surface. The horse must be standing ‘squared up’ on all four feet, and allowed to be bearing weight in its chosen posture. Ideally, the assessment is best performed after the horse has been trimmed, balanced, and is ready to shoe. Having one hoof placed even 3 to 4 inches ahead of or behind the other can alter the accuracy of the evaluation.
Start the observations from six to eight feet away in a position directly in front of the horse. Observe progressively from the foot upward, the position and relative heights of the joints. The foot with the lower heel will usually be significantly larger – the greater the size difference and the longer the low heel/high heel condition has been present, the more difference that will be evident. Difference in hoof size is a prime indicator that this condition exists. (While in this observation position also evaluates the coronary band for evidence of medial lateral balance.)
The fetlock joint on the lower heel side is generally lower than the higher heeled side. Next check the position of the styloid process of the radius. This is the ‘bump’ or ‘top of the shelf’ on the upper medial side of the knee (carpus0. It is nearly always lower on the low-heeled side. As the next step, evaluate and compare the height and symmetry of the points of the shoulder (scapulo-humeral joint). Generally it will be noted that the joint appears lower on the low heel side, and that there is hypertrophy of the descending pectorals on the side with the higher heel. With practice it can become evident that the shoulder point on the lower heeled side will also be place more rearward.
For an overall picture of the asymmetry, it can be very helpful to look at the spatial symmetry created by the inner margins of each limb and of the ventral aspect of the chest wall. In other words, look not at the limbs themselves, but use them as a “picture frame” of the space between the limbs.
Next, stand several feet away at the shoulder at a 90-degree angle from the horse’s direction of stance. From this position it is easy to see differences in pastern angles. In many instances, from this position, the pastern axis can be observed to be ‘broken backwards’. Broken pastern axis is accompanied by varying degrees of subluxation of the pastern joints. The toe may appear to be longer on the low heel side. The shoulder joint can now often be seen to be anywhere from 1⁄2 inch to 2 inches rearward of the limb with the higher heel. The difference in heel height is best seen by positioning one’s self another 45 degrees toward the rear of the horse and from about six to eight feet away.
Then the horse should be evaluated from behind and slightly above the croup. In order for a short person (or when examining a very large horse) to adequately make this evaluation, it helps to stand on a sturdy object of some sort. It will be noted that the shoulder of the limb with the lower heel will usually appear to have a significant lateral ‘bulge’ and it will appear to be higher than its counterpart. This is because the scapula has been displaced into a more vertical position. The shoulder with the higher heel will often appear to slope in an exaggerated manner.
Consider the consequences of this condition o n the fit of a saddle. The larger shoulder tends to exhibit some degree of muscle hypertrophy in the trapezius muscle. Other involved muscles may include the rhomboids, deltoids and subscapularis muscles. The trapezius muscle and the longissimus muscle support the fork or gullet bar in the fork, or head of the saddle. These muscles support the forward part of the bars or panels well. Saddles are for obvious reasons built symmetrically, so when placed on a horse with muscle hypertrophy on one side, the tree rotates diagonally into a position that allows similar contact on both sides of the ‘wither pocket’. Torque of the saddletree may make contact and place excessive pressure on one side of the thoracic spines and leave more openness on the opposing side. The result is pain, loss of ability perform bending and lateral movements. The pressure can also create chiropractic subluxation of the withers. The bulged shoulder may strike the edge of the panel or bar as the scapula moves through its range of motion.
Because the opposite shoulder typically has more slope, the saddle may tend to fall or slip to the sloping shoulder side of the horse. This is a second reason for pressure on the thoracic spinous processes. The problem of slipping to the side is particularly troubling if the croup is also involved and is lower on the same side. This can occur when a high/low condition exists in the hind feet as well. More often, however, when the horse is observed in motion, one side of the croup rises more on one side that the other. It relates to muscle balance, chiropractic or joint issues in the hind limbs. Regardless of cause, it creates an even worse scenario for slippage when combined with shoulder asymmetry.
A rider who must alter his/her position and posture because of improper position of the saddle, will eventually create performance problems and increase the risk of lameness. Most riders have allowed their bodies to compensate and are usually quite unaware of their compensation until it is brought to their attention. Additionally the rider may end up with chronic back, hip or knee pain. The horse, because of a ‘crooked rider’, will experience performance problems and eventual lameness. The crooked saddle and side slipping saddle causes the rider to place more weight in one stirrup than the other. This creates a ‘crooked’ traveling horse and is a cause of sub- clinical and eventually clinical lameness. There are many other postural deviations of the rider that can add to the problem.
It has been a consistent observation that horses that exhibit the high/low syndrome are frequently found to have chiropractic issues and muscle pain and spasm at the base of the neck. Chiropractic subluxations are present, more often (but not always) on the limb with the higher heel. As previously stated, the pressure a ‘crooked’ saddle places on one side of the thoracic spinous processes leads to pain and chiropractic subluxations of the upper thoracic vertebrae.
The consequence of such subluxations is one of the most common causes for a horse to react badly to the tightening of the cinch or girth. The subluxations create
neuromuscular irritability in muscles of the shoulder and in the area covered by the girth or cinch. Uneven weight bearing created both by the syndrome and the change in saddle fit frequently leads to suspensory and check ligament problems. Horses thus affected may also have trouble with a lead or lead changes and may tend to cross canter.
With regard to the foot itself, the syndrome produces a long toe with the heel becoming under-run. This, as we know from Dr. Robert Bowker’s work, leads to inadequate support in the posterior part of the foot and eventually to degeneration of the digital cushion. Digital cushion failure, when present, leads to a ‘broken pastern axis’ that is very difficult if not impossible to correct. It is not uncommon to see large, flat and splayed out frogs accompanying the foot with a degenerated digital cushion, as the front tries to compensate and support the posterior portion of the foot. There is an obvious consequence to be recognized with regard to factors creating ‘navicular disease.’
For the many reasons presented, I feel quite strongly that it is inadequate to address the foot without looking at the consequences on the topside of the horse. Without seeking and correcting the root cause (in this case the high/low heel syndrome) any other treatment is only palliative. By properly addressing the high heel, low heel syndrome, the farrier can be of enormous help to both the rider and the horse.
There have been many theories advanced as the reasons for the low heel. Regardless of the originating factor, whether genetic, or acquired, we are all aware that the horse will typically graze with the limb having the low heel advanced. It is certainly a reasonable theory that pressure (on the heel), maintained through many grazing periods, distorts the hoof capsule, unbalances the foot, advances the break- over location, and causes the heel to become under-run. Pressure over time creates distortion. Distortion equals an unbalanced foot.
What is the appropriate shoeing for this condition? I feel that a cardinal rule is to work primarily with the foot that has the lower heel. Additional problems are incurred if the heel of a true “clubbed foot” is lowered excessively. Structures in the muscles called “spindle cell receptors” and receptors in the musculo-tendonous portion called “Golgi bodies” provide signals from the muscle or tendon to the spinal cord. This data provides information to the central nervous system (CNS) about the tension that exists in the muscles and tendonous structures.
When the heel is lowered, the receptors in the deep flexor tendon are activated and signal the CNS that there is too much stretch in the tendon. The response from the CNS is to issue a signal to shorten the muscle or tendon structures to prevent injury. This response provides one reason why, at the end of a shoeing period, a clubfoot that has had the heel lowered, usually looks as bad or worse as when originally seen.
My experience has lead to the conclusion that the best course of corrective shoeing is the use of wedges as orthotic devices, applied on the lower heel in order to achieve the same heel height and pastern angel as the more upright foot. Sometimes it is necessary to also use a ‘lift’ such as a rim (or full) pad on the same or opposite foot as well, in order to create full symmetry. The determination of height of the wedge at the heel, or if a lift in one side or the other is required, is best determined after the horse has been trimmed and balanced. Again, it is emphasized
that this determination must be made with the horse standing squarely on a firm level surface.
Have the horse stand on the trial orthotics and re-examine for an improvement in symmetry. Use the same examination process as previously described. In review, check factors such as the symmetry of the space between the legs, height and angle of the joints, and the height of the styloid processes. Note whether the ‘point’ of the shoulder now comes into symmetry with the opposite side. Again observe from above and behind to determine the effect on angle and symmetry of the two scapulae. Sometimes the changes observed by this procedure are dramatic. In longstanding cases (especially in older horses) the changes are subtle, and immediate results are not as evident. But you will see improvement in symmetry and performance over the course of multiple shoeings.
Without proper attention to break-over and heel support, the overall condition of the foot can be made worse with this use of wedges. How can this be ameliorated? When shoeing this type of foot, the breaker-over must be set significantly back (to approximately 6 mm ahead of the tip of the coffin bone. A slightly exaggerated heel support should be used and at the very least should extend to the widest part of the buttress of the heel. The wedge should then extend roughly 1/8 inch beyond the heel of the shoe. Following these precautions helps to prevent the heel from further crushing. If the walls are already rolling under at the heels it is necessary to trim them lower yet, to the level where there is sound wall growing in the proper direction and not rolling under. It follows that radical trimming must be followed by using a larger wedge in order to create the appropriate heel height and pastern angle. For most cases, the author prefers an ‘open’ bar wedge, and where indicated, rim pads instead of full pads.
If there is evidence of digital cushion deterioration, it may be necessary to use full pads and impression material, as well as a frog support. In younger horses there is a better rate of success in re-directing the hoof wall growth, re-balancing muscle development, and maintaining a back that can appropriately accommodate a saddle. Quite a few of these horse may be taken out of all support after a limited number of shoeings, Older horses with very long standing problems and poor quality digital cushions are often best kept in the appropriate amount of orthotic on an ongoing basis.
Options included using a wedge shoe on the low heel side, wedging the heel, or simply leaving more heel on the low side. In our experience, the latter choice is the least desirable because the frog often loses the contact it needs to assist in any possible restoration of the digital cushion. If chosen, it should be accompanied by impression material and a frog support on the solar surface.
For muscle re-balancing to occur following postural correction, the horse must be in work. There is always concern with how much work is acceptable and how soon should work resume after shoeing corrections have been done. It is, of course, not a bad idea to err on the side of conservatism and work lightly for the first week or ten days. However, I have seen horses remain in athletic competition immediately after the shoeing changes. Even with no decrease in intensity or schedule of competition they have suffered no apparent negative effects.
One last point – if one is not happy with the results, it is a simple matter to remove the orthotics at any time. However, I believe that if the farrier considers all
the factors and shoes appropriately according to the principles discussed, the results will be positive for all concerned.
The chiropractor mentioned the possibility that it could be due to a condition called Polysaccharide storage myopathy (PSSM). However, it seems to be incredibly rare given the following article:
'A new test for a debilitating genetic muscular condition is now available in the UK and owners of horses predisposed to the condition are being urged to have them tested.
Polysaccharide storage myopathy (PSSM) is most prevalent in American draught breeds, paints, quarter horses and Appaloosas. Horses affected by the condition show signs of tying-up — muscle stiffness, sweating and a reluctance to move. PSSM is thought to be caused by an abnormally rapid uptake of glucose from the bloodstream.
Dr Stephanie Valberg of Minnesota University has carried out research into the condition. She told H&H: "I believe horses used for breeding or being considered for purchase, who show signs of muscle disease, should be tested for PSSM."
Until 2008, the only method of testing was via a muscle biopsy, but Minnesota University has developed a simple DNA test.
The research has also revealed that PSSM is passed on genetically via a dominant gene.
British Appaloosa Society chairman Brian Entwhistle said that PSSM is not yet an issue in the UK. He has been breeding Appaloosas for 40 years and has never had a horse with the condition. But he advocated testing for any genetic disease if a test is available.
"We don't want any disease being propagated within our gene pool," he said. "If there is any problem, I would expect all breeders to test their animals. I hope people will be open if there are diseases we should test."
Appaloosa breeder Alex McEachern said she has not experienced PSSM in 20 years of business, but wouldn't object to a buyer testing her horses.
But she added: "If it is a problem in America, might it not be a good idea to test breeding stallions before they can be licensed to breed in this country?"
To test for the disease send hair samples to the University of Minnesota Diagnostic Laboratory. Forms and contact information are available at http://www.vdl.umn.edu/vdl/ourservices/neuromuscular.html, or ask your vet to send a sample to the Royal Veterinary College in North Mymms, Herts. Testing of hair and root samples costs approximately £100 and a hair-only test is £43.'
So, i have to say i am a little doubtful of the prognosis but then again i haven't spent years training as a back specialist!
Below is another article i found on the condition:
Equine polysaccharide storage myopathy (EPSM) is a form of rhabdomyolysis classified as a metabolic disease that results in the accumulation of high muscle glycogen and abnormal polysaccharide in skeletal muscles.
The occurrence has presently been documented in Quarter horses, American Paint Horses, Quarterhorse crosses, warmbloods, draft horses and draft crosses. Presently, EPSM is believed to be transmitted as an autosomal recessive disorder with mares being more frequently diagnosed than geldings. Geldings may be more commonly affected with non-diagnosed clinical cases.
Horses that are affected generally are referred to as having a calm demeanor and being heavily muscled. Signs often occur 10-20 minutes after light work in 2-4 year olds starting training, but signs can also occur at any stage of life. The episodes may occur once or twice a year to every time the horse is exercised. A common complaint is that horses are exercise intolerant, especially at high speeds. In mild cases, horses show a tucked up abdomen, muscle fasiciculations in the flank, and a camped-out stance. If exercise is continued, profuse sweating, front and hindlimb gait asymmetry, and reluctance to move are seen. In severe cases, horses may refuse to move forward, buck and lie down to avoid exercise. When returned to the stall they may show signs of colic, such as rolling or pawing.
PSSM is a muscle disease in horses with Quarter Horse bloodlines such as Quarter Horses, American Paint Horses and Appaloosas. The American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) has funded research into this disease since 1995 and has provided us with the opportunity to learn much about the diagnosis, cause and treatment for this disease.
Another form of polysaccharide storage myopathy also occurs in Draft, Draft crossbreeds, warmbloods. Many of the clinical signs in these breeds differ from those found in Quarter Horses and related breeds. The signs found in Draft, Draft crossbreeds, and warmbloods include muscle soreness, reluctance to engage the hind quarters, muscle atrophy, weakness, difficulty in backing up, and picking up hind feet.
Whether this disease exists in other breeds is controversial. Research from our laboratory suggests that there are several causes for tying-up. Most racing Quarter Horses, Thoroughbreds, Standardbreds and Arabians with tying-up, suffer from a separate disease from PSSM called recurrent exertional rhabdomyolysis (see RER information). In these breeds of horses, the accumulation of abnormal polysaccharide, the hallmark of PSSM, is rarely if ever present.
Several different acronyms have been used to describe this disorder including PSSM, EPSM and EPSSM. The variety of acronyms used are in part related to preferences of different laboratories, as well as to differences in the criteria used to diagnose polysaccharide storage myopathy. Many light breeds of horses, various draft breeds, ponies, warmblood breeds, and mules are reported to have PSSM when amylase-sensitive glycogen is used as a diagnostic criterion for PSSM. These criteria result in up to 80% of Draft horses and 33% of all horses outside of draft and Quarter Horse bloodlines being diagnosed with PSSM.
Polysaccharide storage myopathy (PSSM) is characterized by the abnormal accumulation of the normal form of sugar stored in muscle (glycogen) as well as an abnormal form of sugar (polysaccharide) in muscle tissue. About 200 horses of Quarter Horse and warmblood/draft horse breeding have been identified with tying-up associated with polysaccharide accumulation in muscles. This disorder is inherited in Quarter Horses and breeding individuals with PSSM has produced affected offspring.
Horses with PSSM accumulate muscle glycogen due to an unregulated uptake of sugar (glucose) into their muscles and the synthesis of its storage from in the muscle called glycogen. One aspect of the defect involves enhanced sensitivity of the muscles to insulin, resulting in more transport of sugar from the bloodstream to skeletal muscle. The diet can be adjusted to decrease the amount of insulin and sugar in the bloodstream. Carbohydrates that are high in starch, such as sweet feed, corn, wheat, oats, barley, and molasses, should be avoided and extra calories can be provided in the form of fat. An important part of the management of PSSM horses is daily exercise. This suppresses glucose uptake, enhances glucose utilization, and improves energy metabolism in skeletal muscle. If only the diet is changed, we found that approximately 50% of horses improve. If both diet and exercise are altered, then 90% of horses have had no or few episodes of tying-up.
An old theory about tying-up is that it is due to too much lactic acid in the muscle. Many exercise studies have proven that this is absolutely not the case with PSSM. PSSM is actually a glycogen storage disease and there are several diseases in other species and in human beings that also result in the storage of too much glycogen in skeletal muscle. In these other diseases, glycogen accumulates because the muscle lacks an enzyme (protein) necessary to burn glycogen as an energy source. These similarities led us to test PSSM horses for the disorders in glycogen metabolism identified in human beings. We found that PSSM is a unique glycogen storage disease because the PSSM horses have all the necessary enzymes to burn glycogen as a fuel in their muscles. With exercise, PSSM horses show the expected decrease in muscle glycogen as it is burned as fuel.
The unique feature of PSSM is that the muscle cells in PSSM horses remove sugar from the blood stream and transported into their muscle at a faster rate, and make more glycogen than normal horses. Our recent research shows that the reason for this is that PSSM muscles are very sensitive to insulin beginning as early as 6 months of age. Insulin is a hormone released by the pancreas into the bloodstream in response to a carbohydrate meal. It stimulates the muscle to take up sugar from the bloodstream. Once inside the cell the muscle’s of PSSM horses make much more glycogen than a normal horse.
The bits i have highlighted in bold are the symptoms Spice does NOT have so again i am not convinced that she has this condition.
But something is causing her to be sore (although two weeks ago according to another chiropractor she was only slightly sore around her withers?!?!)
The other thing about this condition that strikes me as odd is the fact that oil is suggested to be the only cure for it but where in the wild would a horse have access to a pint of oil or more each day?
As always i find two professionals in the horse world who seem to offer very different thoughts, opinions and advice so i have the usual dilemma of who to believe.
If i am completely honest i still think Spices hooves are at the root of the problem...below is an article which sheds some more light on this...
Low Heel/High Heel Syndrome
Unrecognized Problems
by Dr. Kerry J. Ridgway, DVM
The commonly observed condition where the heel of one front foot is higher than the other has ramifications that extend beyond the effects on the foot itself. This condition is also observed in the hind feet, though less frequently. However, because of limitations and scope, this paper will direct its attention primarily to the front feet.
How to best deal with the condition has remained a ‘hot topic’ among farriers. It is the aim of this paper to explore the often unrecognized ramifications in creating muscle imbalance, and changes in posture that result in loss of performance and are a potential source of lameness. It is necessary to explore how the syndrome alters the shape of the back and the consequences such changes create in being able to properly fit a saddle. The posture of the horse that results affects not only saddle placement but also alters the rider’s balance.
Awareness of the many issues came to me about 12 years ago via Moses Gonzales, journeyman farrier, when he demonstrated the effects that low heel/high heel syndrome had on the horse’s posture. Farriers and veterinarians, all too often, counter Gonzales’ observations with skepticism or antagonism. Healthy skepticism is always appropriate, so let us examine the issues on their merits.
In my career as a veterinarian specializing in muscle tension, imbalance and symmetry, I deal daily with performance issues, saddle related problems, shoeing related problems and back pain. These problems constitute as much as 90% of my practice. That has afforded me ample opportunity to observe the relationship of high heel/low heel conditions on a first hand basis. I believe that antagonism needs to be challenged and skepticism addressed. At the very least, this subject needs to be revisited with an open mind.
Let us first discuss the overall postural deviations that are a direct consequence of the lower of the two heels. It should be clarified at this point that it is not the intent to address a true ‘clubfoot’. This paper is not addressing an anatomically ‘short leg’ syndrome (though to a cursory evaluation, the limb with the lower heel may give the appearance of a shorter leg).
The lower heel creates obvious changes in the joint angles at the pastern, fetlock, elbow and scapula-humeral joint (shoulder joint). Compared to the limb with the higher heel, the angles on the low-heeled limb will open (get larger), and the limb will become more vertical than its counterpart throughout its length. The pastern joints and fetlock will be placed in more extension (and possible subluxation). The elbow angle will be more open. As the shoulder opens, the ‘point’ of the shoulder will be moved caudally so its position is farther back than on the higher heeled limb. The position of the scapula becomes altered so that it also becomes more vertical. This verticality creates a bulging of the shoulder and over-development of the associated muscles on the lower-heeled limb.
Observe that the horse has a marked tendency to lean on the shoulder of the lower heeled limb. This may leave some observers to conclude that the measurements that are to be described are ‘off’ only because the horse is leaning on that shoulder, and that if one pushes the horse to an equal weight bearing, the measurements tend to even up. However, this point must be addressed and clarified. We must answer why, given a choice, does the horse choose to lean on that shoulder? It is because of the difference in heel height that the horse returns to leaning on the shoulder of the low-heeled side when allowed to do so. I feel that this is the posture that the horse seeks as compensation.
Commence assessment of the forelimbs by observing the horse’s posture, its joint positions and angles from several directions. To have meaning, the horse must be on a flat surface. The horse must be standing ‘squared up’ on all four feet, and allowed to be bearing weight in its chosen posture. Ideally, the assessment is best performed after the horse has been trimmed, balanced, and is ready to shoe. Having one hoof placed even 3 to 4 inches ahead of or behind the other can alter the accuracy of the evaluation.
Start the observations from six to eight feet away in a position directly in front of the horse. Observe progressively from the foot upward, the position and relative heights of the joints. The foot with the lower heel will usually be significantly larger – the greater the size difference and the longer the low heel/high heel condition has been present, the more difference that will be evident. Difference in hoof size is a prime indicator that this condition exists. (While in this observation position also evaluates the coronary band for evidence of medial lateral balance.)
The fetlock joint on the lower heel side is generally lower than the higher heeled side. Next check the position of the styloid process of the radius. This is the ‘bump’ or ‘top of the shelf’ on the upper medial side of the knee (carpus0. It is nearly always lower on the low-heeled side. As the next step, evaluate and compare the height and symmetry of the points of the shoulder (scapulo-humeral joint). Generally it will be noted that the joint appears lower on the low heel side, and that there is hypertrophy of the descending pectorals on the side with the higher heel. With practice it can become evident that the shoulder point on the lower heeled side will also be place more rearward.
For an overall picture of the asymmetry, it can be very helpful to look at the spatial symmetry created by the inner margins of each limb and of the ventral aspect of the chest wall. In other words, look not at the limbs themselves, but use them as a “picture frame” of the space between the limbs.
Next, stand several feet away at the shoulder at a 90-degree angle from the horse’s direction of stance. From this position it is easy to see differences in pastern angles. In many instances, from this position, the pastern axis can be observed to be ‘broken backwards’. Broken pastern axis is accompanied by varying degrees of subluxation of the pastern joints. The toe may appear to be longer on the low heel side. The shoulder joint can now often be seen to be anywhere from 1⁄2 inch to 2 inches rearward of the limb with the higher heel. The difference in heel height is best seen by positioning one’s self another 45 degrees toward the rear of the horse and from about six to eight feet away.
Then the horse should be evaluated from behind and slightly above the croup. In order for a short person (or when examining a very large horse) to adequately make this evaluation, it helps to stand on a sturdy object of some sort. It will be noted that the shoulder of the limb with the lower heel will usually appear to have a significant lateral ‘bulge’ and it will appear to be higher than its counterpart. This is because the scapula has been displaced into a more vertical position. The shoulder with the higher heel will often appear to slope in an exaggerated manner.
Consider the consequences of this condition o n the fit of a saddle. The larger shoulder tends to exhibit some degree of muscle hypertrophy in the trapezius muscle. Other involved muscles may include the rhomboids, deltoids and subscapularis muscles. The trapezius muscle and the longissimus muscle support the fork or gullet bar in the fork, or head of the saddle. These muscles support the forward part of the bars or panels well. Saddles are for obvious reasons built symmetrically, so when placed on a horse with muscle hypertrophy on one side, the tree rotates diagonally into a position that allows similar contact on both sides of the ‘wither pocket’. Torque of the saddletree may make contact and place excessive pressure on one side of the thoracic spines and leave more openness on the opposing side. The result is pain, loss of ability perform bending and lateral movements. The pressure can also create chiropractic subluxation of the withers. The bulged shoulder may strike the edge of the panel or bar as the scapula moves through its range of motion.
Because the opposite shoulder typically has more slope, the saddle may tend to fall or slip to the sloping shoulder side of the horse. This is a second reason for pressure on the thoracic spinous processes. The problem of slipping to the side is particularly troubling if the croup is also involved and is lower on the same side. This can occur when a high/low condition exists in the hind feet as well. More often, however, when the horse is observed in motion, one side of the croup rises more on one side that the other. It relates to muscle balance, chiropractic or joint issues in the hind limbs. Regardless of cause, it creates an even worse scenario for slippage when combined with shoulder asymmetry.
A rider who must alter his/her position and posture because of improper position of the saddle, will eventually create performance problems and increase the risk of lameness. Most riders have allowed their bodies to compensate and are usually quite unaware of their compensation until it is brought to their attention. Additionally the rider may end up with chronic back, hip or knee pain. The horse, because of a ‘crooked rider’, will experience performance problems and eventual lameness. The crooked saddle and side slipping saddle causes the rider to place more weight in one stirrup than the other. This creates a ‘crooked’ traveling horse and is a cause of sub- clinical and eventually clinical lameness. There are many other postural deviations of the rider that can add to the problem.
It has been a consistent observation that horses that exhibit the high/low syndrome are frequently found to have chiropractic issues and muscle pain and spasm at the base of the neck. Chiropractic subluxations are present, more often (but not always) on the limb with the higher heel. As previously stated, the pressure a ‘crooked’ saddle places on one side of the thoracic spinous processes leads to pain and chiropractic subluxations of the upper thoracic vertebrae.
The consequence of such subluxations is one of the most common causes for a horse to react badly to the tightening of the cinch or girth. The subluxations create
neuromuscular irritability in muscles of the shoulder and in the area covered by the girth or cinch. Uneven weight bearing created both by the syndrome and the change in saddle fit frequently leads to suspensory and check ligament problems. Horses thus affected may also have trouble with a lead or lead changes and may tend to cross canter.
With regard to the foot itself, the syndrome produces a long toe with the heel becoming under-run. This, as we know from Dr. Robert Bowker’s work, leads to inadequate support in the posterior part of the foot and eventually to degeneration of the digital cushion. Digital cushion failure, when present, leads to a ‘broken pastern axis’ that is very difficult if not impossible to correct. It is not uncommon to see large, flat and splayed out frogs accompanying the foot with a degenerated digital cushion, as the front tries to compensate and support the posterior portion of the foot. There is an obvious consequence to be recognized with regard to factors creating ‘navicular disease.’
For the many reasons presented, I feel quite strongly that it is inadequate to address the foot without looking at the consequences on the topside of the horse. Without seeking and correcting the root cause (in this case the high/low heel syndrome) any other treatment is only palliative. By properly addressing the high heel, low heel syndrome, the farrier can be of enormous help to both the rider and the horse.
There have been many theories advanced as the reasons for the low heel. Regardless of the originating factor, whether genetic, or acquired, we are all aware that the horse will typically graze with the limb having the low heel advanced. It is certainly a reasonable theory that pressure (on the heel), maintained through many grazing periods, distorts the hoof capsule, unbalances the foot, advances the break- over location, and causes the heel to become under-run. Pressure over time creates distortion. Distortion equals an unbalanced foot.
What is the appropriate shoeing for this condition? I feel that a cardinal rule is to work primarily with the foot that has the lower heel. Additional problems are incurred if the heel of a true “clubbed foot” is lowered excessively. Structures in the muscles called “spindle cell receptors” and receptors in the musculo-tendonous portion called “Golgi bodies” provide signals from the muscle or tendon to the spinal cord. This data provides information to the central nervous system (CNS) about the tension that exists in the muscles and tendonous structures.
When the heel is lowered, the receptors in the deep flexor tendon are activated and signal the CNS that there is too much stretch in the tendon. The response from the CNS is to issue a signal to shorten the muscle or tendon structures to prevent injury. This response provides one reason why, at the end of a shoeing period, a clubfoot that has had the heel lowered, usually looks as bad or worse as when originally seen.
My experience has lead to the conclusion that the best course of corrective shoeing is the use of wedges as orthotic devices, applied on the lower heel in order to achieve the same heel height and pastern angel as the more upright foot. Sometimes it is necessary to also use a ‘lift’ such as a rim (or full) pad on the same or opposite foot as well, in order to create full symmetry. The determination of height of the wedge at the heel, or if a lift in one side or the other is required, is best determined after the horse has been trimmed and balanced. Again, it is emphasized
that this determination must be made with the horse standing squarely on a firm level surface.
Have the horse stand on the trial orthotics and re-examine for an improvement in symmetry. Use the same examination process as previously described. In review, check factors such as the symmetry of the space between the legs, height and angle of the joints, and the height of the styloid processes. Note whether the ‘point’ of the shoulder now comes into symmetry with the opposite side. Again observe from above and behind to determine the effect on angle and symmetry of the two scapulae. Sometimes the changes observed by this procedure are dramatic. In longstanding cases (especially in older horses) the changes are subtle, and immediate results are not as evident. But you will see improvement in symmetry and performance over the course of multiple shoeings.
Without proper attention to break-over and heel support, the overall condition of the foot can be made worse with this use of wedges. How can this be ameliorated? When shoeing this type of foot, the breaker-over must be set significantly back (to approximately 6 mm ahead of the tip of the coffin bone. A slightly exaggerated heel support should be used and at the very least should extend to the widest part of the buttress of the heel. The wedge should then extend roughly 1/8 inch beyond the heel of the shoe. Following these precautions helps to prevent the heel from further crushing. If the walls are already rolling under at the heels it is necessary to trim them lower yet, to the level where there is sound wall growing in the proper direction and not rolling under. It follows that radical trimming must be followed by using a larger wedge in order to create the appropriate heel height and pastern angle. For most cases, the author prefers an ‘open’ bar wedge, and where indicated, rim pads instead of full pads.
If there is evidence of digital cushion deterioration, it may be necessary to use full pads and impression material, as well as a frog support. In younger horses there is a better rate of success in re-directing the hoof wall growth, re-balancing muscle development, and maintaining a back that can appropriately accommodate a saddle. Quite a few of these horse may be taken out of all support after a limited number of shoeings, Older horses with very long standing problems and poor quality digital cushions are often best kept in the appropriate amount of orthotic on an ongoing basis.
Options included using a wedge shoe on the low heel side, wedging the heel, or simply leaving more heel on the low side. In our experience, the latter choice is the least desirable because the frog often loses the contact it needs to assist in any possible restoration of the digital cushion. If chosen, it should be accompanied by impression material and a frog support on the solar surface.
For muscle re-balancing to occur following postural correction, the horse must be in work. There is always concern with how much work is acceptable and how soon should work resume after shoeing corrections have been done. It is, of course, not a bad idea to err on the side of conservatism and work lightly for the first week or ten days. However, I have seen horses remain in athletic competition immediately after the shoeing changes. Even with no decrease in intensity or schedule of competition they have suffered no apparent negative effects.
One last point – if one is not happy with the results, it is a simple matter to remove the orthotics at any time. However, I believe that if the farrier considers all
the factors and shoes appropriately according to the principles discussed, the results will be positive for all concerned.
141. Livery Yards and their responsibilities (or rather lack of responsibilities)....
Today i am going to write about something which i feel very strongly and passionate about which is the way in which horses are kept. Throughout the Uk there are an estimated 10,000 livery yards and currently there is NO law which requires livery yards to be regulated in anyway. There is a voluntary licensing scheme run by the BHS which ensures a certain code of practice is followed but as this is not compulsory it only lends itself to those that are willing to register and currently the number willing to do so is described as 'dissappointing'.
The code of practice necessary for registering as a licensed BHS livery yard is as follows:
STABLING
1. The construction and size of the stables must be appropriate for the type of
horses to be accommodated. The normal size ranges from 10’x10’ to 14’ x 16’. In
each case:
The animal must be able to stand, with its head in the normal position with
adequate clearance, at least 2ft from the roof
The animal must be able to lie down and get up without difficulty
The animal must be able to stand, with its head in the normal position.
The animal must be able to turn round in comfort
Special attention must be given to very small and very large breeds
2.In the case of stalls:
The sides must be wide enough to enable the animal to turn round and be led
out without the necessity of backing.
The length of the stall floor must allow the horse to stand on the same level
with front and hind feet.
The animal must be able to lie down and get up without difficulty
Special attention must be given to very small and very large breeds
3.Walls should present a reasonably smooth uninterrupted surface free from edges
or projections on which an animal could injure itself. Partitions if used, must be
down to floor leveltin sheeting must not be used.
4.Access to all stables / boxes / stalls should be possible for individual horses
without risk from other horses or equipment.
5.Windows if fitted must be at a high enough level to prevent injury to horse or
alternatively must be barred. There must be adequate ventilation.
6.Adequate suitable bedding to protect stabled horses from injury and disease
should be provided. The stable should drain adequately, or deep litter should be
provided in order to maintain a dry bed.
7.Each box should have provision for feeding and fresh water.
8.Adequate safe lighting whether fixed or portable shall be available to enable the
horses to be thoroughly inspected at any time. If power points are provided they
must be protected and the switches placed outside the boxes and not within reach
of the horse.
9.Suitable storage for feed, forage and bedding must be provided.
10.The yard must be capable of being gated.
11.Vehicle access to the yard must be provided
MANURE STORAGE
1.There must be provision for adequate storage away from the stable area.
FEEDING AND WATERING
1.The horses, if required, will be given supplementary feeding according to their
age, size and amount of work being carried out in order to maintain them in good health, satisfy their natural needs and promote a positive state of well being.
2.All horse must have access to or be provided with an adequate supply of fresh
drinking water each day.
3.Feeding and watering equipment of non stabled horses shall be placed and
maintained so that contamination of food and water are minimised and
competition between horses avoided.
GRAZING LAND
1.Grazing land must be maintained in a suitable condition for equines, restricted
areas must be provided if required.
2.Pasture and hedges must be regularly inspected for poisonous plants and they
must be removed if present.
3.Where grass is used as sustenance, there must be sufficient to keep each animal in
that field.
4.Horses that are not stabled shall, when necessary, be given protection from
adverse weather conditions, and at all times have access to a well drained lying
area.
FENCING
1.Secure and safe horse proof fencing must be provided.
2.Barbed wire is unsuitable, but if present must be separated by a secure guard
fence or electric t ape.
HEALTH
1.The horses under the care of this livery yard shall be inspected at intervals
sufficient to avoid any suffering.
2.Any horses which appear to be ill or injured;
shall be cared for appropriately wit hout delay and
Where they do not respond to such care, veterinary advice shall be
obtained immediately.
3.Where necessary, sick or injured horses shall be isolated in suitable
accommodation wit h, where appropriate, dry comfortable bedding.
4.Records should be kept of all medicinal treatment given to horses. This is the
owner’s responsibility.
5.A yard parasite control programme and vaccination programme must be carried
out under veterinary control/advice
6.All animals must be registered with a veterinary practice and wit h a registered
farrier.
STATUTORY WELFARE CODES
If the livery yard owner employs or engages a person to attend to the horses he shall
ensure that the person;
a)It is advised that all livery providers are acquaint ed with the Equine Industry
Welfare Guidelines Compendium for Horses, Ponies and Donkeys December
2005 NEWC
POWERS OF AN AUTHORISED PERSON
Where an authorised person considers that horses are being kept in a way which is
likely to cause unnecessary pain, suffering or injury or in any other way in
contravention of any provision of these Regulat ions, he may serve a notice on the
person appearing to him to be in charge of the animals requiring that person, within
the period stated in the notice, to take any act ion that the authorised person considers
to be reasonably necessary to ensure compliance with these Regulat ions and the
authorised person shall give his reasons for requiring that action to be taken.
Produced by BEVA, BHS, RSPCA, ILPH on behalf of the horse Industry
I think it is reasonable and fair assumption to make that any long standing livery yard which is not registered with the BHS scheme does not meet the above requirements and therefore is not providing horses with the basic care and management they require.
Although the BHS Scheme is definitely a step in the right direction what i find odd is that no mention of adequate turnout time is stipulated. So, literally at this moment in time there is no law or legislation against keeping a horse in a stable for 24hrs a day every day. This means that currently owners and managers of livery yards who do not have enough grazing can make more money by building a few more stables even if it means it is detrimental to the welfare of the horses.
Let's face it, all businesses are in business to make money (that's a given) but as a society don't we have a responsibility to make sure that this isn't to the detriment of our animals?
It seems strange to me that you can get a way with keeping a horse in a stable 24hrs a day but that keeping dog in a kennel for 24 hrs a day you'd probably find yourself reported to the RSPCA and possibly prosecuted.
I believe most livery yards open up because they have a genuine interest and care for horses but somewhere along the way it seems that these emotions are clouded over by greed and the temptation of earning more money.
What i would ask these livery yard owners and managers is...if they consider their horses to be happy would they happily swap places with them?
I keep my horse out 24/7 with 5 other horses in a field that is poo picked every day with the best food money can buy but i still can't say yes to this question for i realize it is no substitute for the life of a horse that lives in the wild but i can say 'i am doing my very best' and that my desire for money only ever enhances her quality of life.
The code of practice necessary for registering as a licensed BHS livery yard is as follows:
STABLING
1. The construction and size of the stables must be appropriate for the type of
horses to be accommodated. The normal size ranges from 10’x10’ to 14’ x 16’. In
each case:
The animal must be able to stand, with its head in the normal position with
adequate clearance, at least 2ft from the roof
The animal must be able to lie down and get up without difficulty
The animal must be able to stand, with its head in the normal position.
The animal must be able to turn round in comfort
Special attention must be given to very small and very large breeds
2.In the case of stalls:
The sides must be wide enough to enable the animal to turn round and be led
out without the necessity of backing.
The length of the stall floor must allow the horse to stand on the same level
with front and hind feet.
The animal must be able to lie down and get up without difficulty
Special attention must be given to very small and very large breeds
3.Walls should present a reasonably smooth uninterrupted surface free from edges
or projections on which an animal could injure itself. Partitions if used, must be
down to floor leveltin sheeting must not be used.
4.Access to all stables / boxes / stalls should be possible for individual horses
without risk from other horses or equipment.
5.Windows if fitted must be at a high enough level to prevent injury to horse or
alternatively must be barred. There must be adequate ventilation.
6.Adequate suitable bedding to protect stabled horses from injury and disease
should be provided. The stable should drain adequately, or deep litter should be
provided in order to maintain a dry bed.
7.Each box should have provision for feeding and fresh water.
8.Adequate safe lighting whether fixed or portable shall be available to enable the
horses to be thoroughly inspected at any time. If power points are provided they
must be protected and the switches placed outside the boxes and not within reach
of the horse.
9.Suitable storage for feed, forage and bedding must be provided.
10.The yard must be capable of being gated.
11.Vehicle access to the yard must be provided
MANURE STORAGE
1.There must be provision for adequate storage away from the stable area.
FEEDING AND WATERING
1.The horses, if required, will be given supplementary feeding according to their
age, size and amount of work being carried out in order to maintain them in good health, satisfy their natural needs and promote a positive state of well being.
2.All horse must have access to or be provided with an adequate supply of fresh
drinking water each day.
3.Feeding and watering equipment of non stabled horses shall be placed and
maintained so that contamination of food and water are minimised and
competition between horses avoided.
GRAZING LAND
1.Grazing land must be maintained in a suitable condition for equines, restricted
areas must be provided if required.
2.Pasture and hedges must be regularly inspected for poisonous plants and they
must be removed if present.
3.Where grass is used as sustenance, there must be sufficient to keep each animal in
that field.
4.Horses that are not stabled shall, when necessary, be given protection from
adverse weather conditions, and at all times have access to a well drained lying
area.
FENCING
1.Secure and safe horse proof fencing must be provided.
2.Barbed wire is unsuitable, but if present must be separated by a secure guard
fence or electric t ape.
HEALTH
1.The horses under the care of this livery yard shall be inspected at intervals
sufficient to avoid any suffering.
2.Any horses which appear to be ill or injured;
shall be cared for appropriately wit hout delay and
Where they do not respond to such care, veterinary advice shall be
obtained immediately.
3.Where necessary, sick or injured horses shall be isolated in suitable
accommodation wit h, where appropriate, dry comfortable bedding.
4.Records should be kept of all medicinal treatment given to horses. This is the
owner’s responsibility.
5.A yard parasite control programme and vaccination programme must be carried
out under veterinary control/advice
6.All animals must be registered with a veterinary practice and wit h a registered
farrier.
STATUTORY WELFARE CODES
If the livery yard owner employs or engages a person to attend to the horses he shall
ensure that the person;
a)It is advised that all livery providers are acquaint ed with the Equine Industry
Welfare Guidelines Compendium for Horses, Ponies and Donkeys December
2005 NEWC
POWERS OF AN AUTHORISED PERSON
Where an authorised person considers that horses are being kept in a way which is
likely to cause unnecessary pain, suffering or injury or in any other way in
contravention of any provision of these Regulat ions, he may serve a notice on the
person appearing to him to be in charge of the animals requiring that person, within
the period stated in the notice, to take any act ion that the authorised person considers
to be reasonably necessary to ensure compliance with these Regulat ions and the
authorised person shall give his reasons for requiring that action to be taken.
Produced by BEVA, BHS, RSPCA, ILPH on behalf of the horse Industry
I think it is reasonable and fair assumption to make that any long standing livery yard which is not registered with the BHS scheme does not meet the above requirements and therefore is not providing horses with the basic care and management they require.
Although the BHS Scheme is definitely a step in the right direction what i find odd is that no mention of adequate turnout time is stipulated. So, literally at this moment in time there is no law or legislation against keeping a horse in a stable for 24hrs a day every day. This means that currently owners and managers of livery yards who do not have enough grazing can make more money by building a few more stables even if it means it is detrimental to the welfare of the horses.
Let's face it, all businesses are in business to make money (that's a given) but as a society don't we have a responsibility to make sure that this isn't to the detriment of our animals?
It seems strange to me that you can get a way with keeping a horse in a stable 24hrs a day but that keeping dog in a kennel for 24 hrs a day you'd probably find yourself reported to the RSPCA and possibly prosecuted.
I believe most livery yards open up because they have a genuine interest and care for horses but somewhere along the way it seems that these emotions are clouded over by greed and the temptation of earning more money.
What i would ask these livery yard owners and managers is...if they consider their horses to be happy would they happily swap places with them?
I keep my horse out 24/7 with 5 other horses in a field that is poo picked every day with the best food money can buy but i still can't say yes to this question for i realize it is no substitute for the life of a horse that lives in the wild but i can say 'i am doing my very best' and that my desire for money only ever enhances her quality of life.
Thursday 27 May 2010
140. Spices 5th Barefoot Trim...
Today i had Sarah my barefoot trimmer come to trim Spices hooves and overall i think she was fairly pleased. She agreed that the lameness (present before) had subsided and that apart from a few small cracks her hooves were looking in pretty good shape. So, all being well i should be able to ride her in the arena this weekend. :) She warned me against riding out on roads unprotected whilst the sole in her hind hoof thickens up but said that she thought she would be fine in hoof boots.
The only thing she mentioned was the 'clicking noise' from Spices back legs which first began back in February when she was lame and stiff from her abscess so i might get that checked out since it seems to be 'on' and 'off'.
Spice was also a complete angel for the barefoot trimmer today she stood so still almost as though she thought she was having a pedicure so i was really pleased with her. She did however give Pie a boot for attempting to eat what she thought should be her carrot so i wasn't best pleased with her then. Hopefully Pie will be o.k. although he did look slightly sore afterward.
The only thing she mentioned was the 'clicking noise' from Spices back legs which first began back in February when she was lame and stiff from her abscess so i might get that checked out since it seems to be 'on' and 'off'.
Spice was also a complete angel for the barefoot trimmer today she stood so still almost as though she thought she was having a pedicure so i was really pleased with her. She did however give Pie a boot for attempting to eat what she thought should be her carrot so i wasn't best pleased with her then. Hopefully Pie will be o.k. although he did look slightly sore afterward.
Tuesday 25 May 2010
139. Formula 4 Feet
O.k so having just run out of Spillers 'happy hoof' i have decided to give Spice a small scoop of unmolassed speedi beet, a small scoop of high fibre unmolassed chaff and the recommended amount of 'formula 4 feet'. I've never tried her on 'formula 4 feet' but from everything i have read it sounds very good and having looked at the nutritional analysis it certainly looks impressive.
I am aiming to get back on Spice this weekend even if it is just to do some schooling in the arena as her hoof is looking so much better it still needs to grow about 1cm but that should only take 4 weeks and with hoof boots i don't think she'll have any problems.
That reminds me they should be arriving this friday so fingers crossed i can find 4 that fit! I am planning on long reining, lunging and schooling her in them before attempting to hack out in them just to be sure that they fit right. So hopefully i'll get to do this over the weekend.
I am aiming to get back on Spice this weekend even if it is just to do some schooling in the arena as her hoof is looking so much better it still needs to grow about 1cm but that should only take 4 weeks and with hoof boots i don't think she'll have any problems.
That reminds me they should be arriving this friday so fingers crossed i can find 4 that fit! I am planning on long reining, lunging and schooling her in them before attempting to hack out in them just to be sure that they fit right. So hopefully i'll get to do this over the weekend.
Sunday 23 May 2010
138. Are some horses incapable of leading?
Today, i decided to sit and watch the horses for a while why they moved about in their herd. I like doing this because i feel it helps me learn more about the way they communicate with one another...
Anyway, when i split the herd up into two groups (for grazing reasons) which meant Spice would be the most dominant in terms of hierachy i noticed something very interesting...I noticed that although Spice was more dominant i.e able to move both the other two horses out of the way - she was completely reluctant to 'lead' them in fact i didn't see her 'lead' them anywhere i just saw her follow. And the one she chose to follow was Lucy someone she often 'hangs about with'.
So what i couldn't understand was: how could Spice be dominant over the other two horses and yet not able to lead them anywhere? Why when it came down to going anywhere would she take the position as a 'follower'?
What i realised is that Spice is a 'dominant' horse hence the reason why she sometimes challenges me but has no 'confidence' when it requires taking a lead role as 'herd leader' she exhibits herd leader type behaviour as far as being able to move another horse out of the way but revokes all responsiblity when it comes to leading them anywhere.
This makes even more sense when i think about what she is like out hacking because she always prefers to be behind rather than in front (even if the horse in front is lower down on the hierachy and if i am on my own with her she is far less confident because i am asking her to physically be in front of me rather than follow me.
I always thought that the more 'dominant' a horse the more 'confident' but actually dominance seems to have nothing to do with confidence in fact it seems to have more to do with not being confident. For I wouldn't describe Fen as particularly dominant - especially not towards people but she is extremely confident and perhaps this is what makes a horse a leader rather than a follower.
I once remarked on the fact that Spice's dominance was based on fear rather than confidence in that in her eyes if she is able to move all the other horses apart from Fen (the herd leader out of the way) she would be able to better keep her 'position' within the herd in times of danger and thus be safer.
This also explains why Fen who is only 4 is so great at hacking out because she is so used to 'leading' her herd every day that it becomes second nature for her. However, she is not so good at following in fact when her owner rides her out with another horse that over takes her she gets very tense and edgy.
So, i guess my concern is: how can i expect Spice to 'lead' me anywhere if she doesn't have the confidence to do it in her own herd in a place she feels secure and safe?
And thus am i fighting a losing battle? Will i only ever be able to hack her out with another horse?
Anyway, when i split the herd up into two groups (for grazing reasons) which meant Spice would be the most dominant in terms of hierachy i noticed something very interesting...I noticed that although Spice was more dominant i.e able to move both the other two horses out of the way - she was completely reluctant to 'lead' them in fact i didn't see her 'lead' them anywhere i just saw her follow. And the one she chose to follow was Lucy someone she often 'hangs about with'.
So what i couldn't understand was: how could Spice be dominant over the other two horses and yet not able to lead them anywhere? Why when it came down to going anywhere would she take the position as a 'follower'?
What i realised is that Spice is a 'dominant' horse hence the reason why she sometimes challenges me but has no 'confidence' when it requires taking a lead role as 'herd leader' she exhibits herd leader type behaviour as far as being able to move another horse out of the way but revokes all responsiblity when it comes to leading them anywhere.
This makes even more sense when i think about what she is like out hacking because she always prefers to be behind rather than in front (even if the horse in front is lower down on the hierachy and if i am on my own with her she is far less confident because i am asking her to physically be in front of me rather than follow me.
I always thought that the more 'dominant' a horse the more 'confident' but actually dominance seems to have nothing to do with confidence in fact it seems to have more to do with not being confident. For I wouldn't describe Fen as particularly dominant - especially not towards people but she is extremely confident and perhaps this is what makes a horse a leader rather than a follower.
I once remarked on the fact that Spice's dominance was based on fear rather than confidence in that in her eyes if she is able to move all the other horses apart from Fen (the herd leader out of the way) she would be able to better keep her 'position' within the herd in times of danger and thus be safer.
This also explains why Fen who is only 4 is so great at hacking out because she is so used to 'leading' her herd every day that it becomes second nature for her. However, she is not so good at following in fact when her owner rides her out with another horse that over takes her she gets very tense and edgy.
So, i guess my concern is: how can i expect Spice to 'lead' me anywhere if she doesn't have the confidence to do it in her own herd in a place she feels secure and safe?
And thus am i fighting a losing battle? Will i only ever be able to hack her out with another horse?
137. Respect... its as easy to gain it as it is to lose it...
During the last few days it has been absolutely roasting! We are officially having a heatwave so i have left Spice to her own devices as i have no desire to work in this heat so don't see how i can expect her to.
Her hooves are going from strength to strength and i can't wait for her next trim.
As soon as the heat wave is over i am going to start lunging her but the great thing is she is actually looking super considering how little i have done with her. Yes, she's lost a bit of her top line but on the whole she looks brilliant.
The really good thing at the moment is that over the last few days i have been approaching Spice with a sort of no-nonsense attitude i.e what i say goes...as i was beginning to feel like she'd lost a bit of respect for me but just being like this for 2/3 days she has quickly reverted back into her pleasant respectful self and not the spoiled little princess i was fearing she had turned into!
It amazes me sometimes how quickly you can lose respect and how quickly you can gain it...
The other good thing that i probably shouldn't really talk about too much as it's still early days and has nothing to do with horses is that i just found out i am pregnant which is both crazy, surreal and wonderful all at the same time. But i promise not to talk about this too much!
Her hooves are going from strength to strength and i can't wait for her next trim.
As soon as the heat wave is over i am going to start lunging her but the great thing is she is actually looking super considering how little i have done with her. Yes, she's lost a bit of her top line but on the whole she looks brilliant.
The really good thing at the moment is that over the last few days i have been approaching Spice with a sort of no-nonsense attitude i.e what i say goes...as i was beginning to feel like she'd lost a bit of respect for me but just being like this for 2/3 days she has quickly reverted back into her pleasant respectful self and not the spoiled little princess i was fearing she had turned into!
It amazes me sometimes how quickly you can lose respect and how quickly you can gain it...
The other good thing that i probably shouldn't really talk about too much as it's still early days and has nothing to do with horses is that i just found out i am pregnant which is both crazy, surreal and wonderful all at the same time. But i promise not to talk about this too much!
Thursday 20 May 2010
136. The fatter the horse the calmer the horse...?
Lately, i've been trying to feed Spice up a bit because there isn't much grass in the field at the moment and she was looking a bit on the thin side so i've been feeding her a small scoop of speedi beet twice a day with two handfuls of happy hoof and within 5 days she has definitely put on a few pounds - just enough so that i can't see her ribs anymore. :)
I have titled this entry as 'Feeding acts as a calmer' because i have noticed that when Spice is hungry she is a lot more alert and stressy than when she isn't. In fact she almost acts like a different horse. So, i have a theory that keeping horses which are prone to losing weight topped up a constant supply of high fibre low sugar feed may well reduce nervous energy and nervous tension resulting in a much calmer horse.
It has to be said aswell that the calmest horses in the yard are Fen and Syrup who are both on the larger side and then there's mags and pie who are in between and are lively and then Spice and Lucy - the thinnies who are often anxious and stressy.
I guess horses are not too different from humans for when we feel hungry we often get irritable and stressy or at least i know i do!
I have titled this entry as 'Feeding acts as a calmer' because i have noticed that when Spice is hungry she is a lot more alert and stressy than when she isn't. In fact she almost acts like a different horse. So, i have a theory that keeping horses which are prone to losing weight topped up a constant supply of high fibre low sugar feed may well reduce nervous energy and nervous tension resulting in a much calmer horse.
It has to be said aswell that the calmest horses in the yard are Fen and Syrup who are both on the larger side and then there's mags and pie who are in between and are lively and then Spice and Lucy - the thinnies who are often anxious and stressy.
I guess horses are not too different from humans for when we feel hungry we often get irritable and stressy or at least i know i do!
Wednesday 19 May 2010
135. How to get your horse to obey you...
The “second in command" will act just like the General but he won’t pick on the General because the General dominates him. This string of command continues all the way down to the bottom of the pecking order. Any time a new animal comes into the group then the pecking order shifts. Knowing this information, you can use it to your advantage. You can make yourself the leader in the horse’s eyes. He’ll look to you for instruction. He’ll obey you.
If you have a dominant horse it will be instinct for him to let a more dominant being make the decisions. In this case the dominant being will be you. You will become leader by using your body language to show you are confident. Being dominant doesn’t mean you’re being aggressive.
On the other hand, if your horse is the General, you may have to be more assertive. Make sure your horse doesn’t think you’re a threat. It’s easy to come across as threatening when you’re being assertive. If your horse feels threatened he’ll fight back and you can’t win. And if you are doing horse training, you will find it hard to get results.
In the wild, dominant and aggressive horses will make their bodies tight and make sudden moves with fury while getting into the other horse’s space. The weaker horse will concede and move out of his space. Think of it as the General screaming an order and the Private is obeying.
Slow movements tend to draw one horse to another. Horses express calmness with relaxed, slow steps. This is how they welcome other horses in their space.
If a horse is trying to show you he’s the General you may see a clamped-down tail with pinned ears. To get him to accept you as the General you will move him out of his space. You do this by matching any quick moves he makes with your own quick moves. The trick is to make the first strike before he does.
One way to do this is with a quick arm movement towards him – almost like you’re violently shooing away some pesky flies. Also, you can use an aggressive tone of voice towards a horse if he’s being aggressive.
How can you tell if he’s conceding to you? If he turns his head or drops it, relaxes his tail, begins chewing, or takes a deep breath, then that’s how you know. If any of these happen he’s saying, “Okay, I’ll do what you say because I want to listen to you." Pay attention to these clues that tell you your horse is in the Private mode (the follower) instead of the General mode.
When you go into the round pen to work with your horse first check to see how he responds to you. If he rubs his head on you or swings his rear end toward you then he’s challenging your position in the pecking order. If you’re with a horse that’s not dominant you want to make sure he has confidence. Thus, be very careful not to be threatening.
If you have a dominant horse it will be instinct for him to let a more dominant being make the decisions. In this case the dominant being will be you. You will become leader by using your body language to show you are confident. Being dominant doesn’t mean you’re being aggressive.
On the other hand, if your horse is the General, you may have to be more assertive. Make sure your horse doesn’t think you’re a threat. It’s easy to come across as threatening when you’re being assertive. If your horse feels threatened he’ll fight back and you can’t win. And if you are doing horse training, you will find it hard to get results.
In the wild, dominant and aggressive horses will make their bodies tight and make sudden moves with fury while getting into the other horse’s space. The weaker horse will concede and move out of his space. Think of it as the General screaming an order and the Private is obeying.
Slow movements tend to draw one horse to another. Horses express calmness with relaxed, slow steps. This is how they welcome other horses in their space.
If a horse is trying to show you he’s the General you may see a clamped-down tail with pinned ears. To get him to accept you as the General you will move him out of his space. You do this by matching any quick moves he makes with your own quick moves. The trick is to make the first strike before he does.
One way to do this is with a quick arm movement towards him – almost like you’re violently shooing away some pesky flies. Also, you can use an aggressive tone of voice towards a horse if he’s being aggressive.
How can you tell if he’s conceding to you? If he turns his head or drops it, relaxes his tail, begins chewing, or takes a deep breath, then that’s how you know. If any of these happen he’s saying, “Okay, I’ll do what you say because I want to listen to you." Pay attention to these clues that tell you your horse is in the Private mode (the follower) instead of the General mode.
When you go into the round pen to work with your horse first check to see how he responds to you. If he rubs his head on you or swings his rear end toward you then he’s challenging your position in the pecking order. If you’re with a horse that’s not dominant you want to make sure he has confidence. Thus, be very careful not to be threatening.
134. Rebellion...
Spice was looking great today, she was hoonying about in the arena with Lucy and when i let her off the lead rope to join Pie and Lucy in the long green grass she galloped off so fast i thought she'd slip! So i think it's fair to say she is definitely on the mend. Hooray!
Before putting her out i got the opportunity to watch Spice play 'join up' with Lucy in the paddock she was forcing Lucy to run around the parimeter and by cantering at full speed in front of her path able to force her to change her direction - she did this on and off for a about 5 mins - it was really interesting to watch - having only ever seen Monty Roberts do it. Looking back i wish i'd have filmed it as would love to watch it again. Hopefully, i'll get to see it again soon.
After giving her half an hour or so of grazing time in the long grass i decided to do some long reining with her to see what she remembered and she was great.
I started off in the arena just doing a few manouvres backing up, stopping, turning in tight circles to which she responded brilliantly and then decided to lead her out of the gate and down to the stables. I asked Alex my friend to stay in front of her for reassurance which she responded well to made her stand for a few seconds at the bottom before asking her to walk on back to the top.
I was happy to leave it at that until Spice decided to throw a hissy fit and did a huge buck - aimed at me might i add! The problem was she could see Pie and Lucy at the end of the field in the green grass and wanted to be with them but i was asking her to go in the opposite direction. So instead of asking her to go back to the corral i decided to give her some more work for throwing such a tantrum and ask her to go down to the stable and back again (this time without Alex in front) and much to my delight she did with virtually no hesitation.
It's strange because i have said all along that when Spice isn't acting out of fear but rather rebellion (like she was today) she is very easy to deal with and i usually have no problem but when she is acting out of fear she is altogether a different kettle of fish - i guess to her winning means living and losing means death so why wouldn't she give it all she has.
Anyway, having realised that it may not be the best idea trying to make a horse do some work while it can see its best friends munching on green grass in the distance we have decided to put all the horses out together after we have got some work done to eliminate any tantrums.
Spices new nickname is now Mariah (Carey).
Before putting her out i got the opportunity to watch Spice play 'join up' with Lucy in the paddock she was forcing Lucy to run around the parimeter and by cantering at full speed in front of her path able to force her to change her direction - she did this on and off for a about 5 mins - it was really interesting to watch - having only ever seen Monty Roberts do it. Looking back i wish i'd have filmed it as would love to watch it again. Hopefully, i'll get to see it again soon.
After giving her half an hour or so of grazing time in the long grass i decided to do some long reining with her to see what she remembered and she was great.
I started off in the arena just doing a few manouvres backing up, stopping, turning in tight circles to which she responded brilliantly and then decided to lead her out of the gate and down to the stables. I asked Alex my friend to stay in front of her for reassurance which she responded well to made her stand for a few seconds at the bottom before asking her to walk on back to the top.
I was happy to leave it at that until Spice decided to throw a hissy fit and did a huge buck - aimed at me might i add! The problem was she could see Pie and Lucy at the end of the field in the green grass and wanted to be with them but i was asking her to go in the opposite direction. So instead of asking her to go back to the corral i decided to give her some more work for throwing such a tantrum and ask her to go down to the stable and back again (this time without Alex in front) and much to my delight she did with virtually no hesitation.
It's strange because i have said all along that when Spice isn't acting out of fear but rather rebellion (like she was today) she is very easy to deal with and i usually have no problem but when she is acting out of fear she is altogether a different kettle of fish - i guess to her winning means living and losing means death so why wouldn't she give it all she has.
Anyway, having realised that it may not be the best idea trying to make a horse do some work while it can see its best friends munching on green grass in the distance we have decided to put all the horses out together after we have got some work done to eliminate any tantrums.
Spices new nickname is now Mariah (Carey).
Tuesday 18 May 2010
133. Hoof Boots...
I just made my purchase for 2 pairs of Renegade Hoof boots which will hopefully fit Spices front hooves. http://www.renegadehoofboots.com/ Although i already have 6 EasyCare Glove boots http://www.easycareinc.com/our_boots/easyboot_glove/Easyboot_Glove.aspx i think they will only be suitable for Spices hind hooves so i decided to buy the Renegades on the premise that out of 10 boots of different designs i should be able to get a perfect fit for each hoof.
I figure that the ones which don't fit i can just sell...as boy are they expensive! The Renegades retail at about £60's each (inc postage) and the easy care gloves around £50's each (inc postage).
So, altogether i've spent about £550's!!! Yikes there's no question about it - I definitely need to sell the ones which don't fit!
Anyway, as soon as the Renegades are delivered which should be in two weeks time i should be able to start doing some proper work with Spice which will be great. As I have to say i think she is slowly but surely turning into a DIVA. I think i have been so worried about her hoofies that i have been a little bit lax in my assertiveness around her and boy has she noticed. It's hard not to treat a lame horse with kid gloves because you find yourself feeling sorry for them and 'treating' them because you want to make their life a bit more pleasant but Spice is definitely the kind of horse to take advantage of this sweetness. So, i have decided to toughen up a bit with her as if i want to get back one her back again i need to get her respecting me again.
I find it strange that some horses are so gentle and innocent in their nature...like Fen - my friends horse, i don't think i have ever seen her take advantage or disrespect her in anyway - it just doesn't seem to be in her nature. Perhaps it's a maturity thing for she has had a foal so although she is the same age as Spice she has probably had to grow up fast.
I figure that the ones which don't fit i can just sell...as boy are they expensive! The Renegades retail at about £60's each (inc postage) and the easy care gloves around £50's each (inc postage).
So, altogether i've spent about £550's!!! Yikes there's no question about it - I definitely need to sell the ones which don't fit!
Anyway, as soon as the Renegades are delivered which should be in two weeks time i should be able to start doing some proper work with Spice which will be great. As I have to say i think she is slowly but surely turning into a DIVA. I think i have been so worried about her hoofies that i have been a little bit lax in my assertiveness around her and boy has she noticed. It's hard not to treat a lame horse with kid gloves because you find yourself feeling sorry for them and 'treating' them because you want to make their life a bit more pleasant but Spice is definitely the kind of horse to take advantage of this sweetness. So, i have decided to toughen up a bit with her as if i want to get back one her back again i need to get her respecting me again.
I find it strange that some horses are so gentle and innocent in their nature...like Fen - my friends horse, i don't think i have ever seen her take advantage or disrespect her in anyway - it just doesn't seem to be in her nature. Perhaps it's a maturity thing for she has had a foal so although she is the same age as Spice she has probably had to grow up fast.
Monday 17 May 2010
132. Spices Back Check Up.
Today Spice had her appointment with a Chiropractor to double check that the lameness wasn't due to a problem with her back....and i am very pleased to say that after a thorough check the chiropractor thought the same as i did - that the lameness was primarily being caused by the lack of structure in Spices hind hoof. Therefore, it is just a matter of waiting for the hoof to grow until it has enough structure to support itself again. :)
I am so happy with the diagnosis as i was worrying that the lameness could be being caused by something more serious but i am now confident that it isn't.
The good news is the Chiropractor also advised me to start hand walking Spice out and about as much as possible as movement will encourage blood flow and speed up hoof growth. So, as soon as i get some hoof boots for her front hooves i should be set to go.
Interestingly, the Chiropractor also made a comment about Spices withers which when pressed on either side were slightly sore. Having only used my new treeless saddle twice for only an hour at a time she said that she very much doubted that the soreness was due to this saddle but probably due to the last saddle and that given that it was over 4 months ago since i used the saddle was probably incredibly sore at the time which explains so much...
For one, Spice always moved away from the mounting block as i went to mount her so could it be that rather than being disrespectful or misbehaving she was actually just sore?
Fen, my friends horse only a few weeks ago was so bad at standing still at the mounting block that on her own (without anyone standing in front) it might take her up to 2 minutes to mount her. However, wondering if it could be a problem with her back (after a bucking fit) she had an appointment with the Chiropractor and was immediately diagnosed as having a problem with her Sacroiliac joint and needing four weeks off, aswell as long reining and lunging before attempting to ride her again. After following these instructions, the next time my friend went to get on Fen, she didn't move an inch. In fact, my friend didn't even bother holding the reins she stood that still.
So, once again...horses don't just 'take the piss' sometimes they are genuinely just trying to tell you something and those that LISTEN to their horses and TRUST them are those that i consider to be good horsemen (and horsewomen) :)
If we do not listen to our horses and trust them - how can we expect them to do the same?
The Chiropractor i used to assess Spices back is based in North Somerset and can be found on the following website: http://www.thebacklady.co.uk
I am so happy with the diagnosis as i was worrying that the lameness could be being caused by something more serious but i am now confident that it isn't.
The good news is the Chiropractor also advised me to start hand walking Spice out and about as much as possible as movement will encourage blood flow and speed up hoof growth. So, as soon as i get some hoof boots for her front hooves i should be set to go.
Interestingly, the Chiropractor also made a comment about Spices withers which when pressed on either side were slightly sore. Having only used my new treeless saddle twice for only an hour at a time she said that she very much doubted that the soreness was due to this saddle but probably due to the last saddle and that given that it was over 4 months ago since i used the saddle was probably incredibly sore at the time which explains so much...
For one, Spice always moved away from the mounting block as i went to mount her so could it be that rather than being disrespectful or misbehaving she was actually just sore?
Fen, my friends horse only a few weeks ago was so bad at standing still at the mounting block that on her own (without anyone standing in front) it might take her up to 2 minutes to mount her. However, wondering if it could be a problem with her back (after a bucking fit) she had an appointment with the Chiropractor and was immediately diagnosed as having a problem with her Sacroiliac joint and needing four weeks off, aswell as long reining and lunging before attempting to ride her again. After following these instructions, the next time my friend went to get on Fen, she didn't move an inch. In fact, my friend didn't even bother holding the reins she stood that still.
So, once again...horses don't just 'take the piss' sometimes they are genuinely just trying to tell you something and those that LISTEN to their horses and TRUST them are those that i consider to be good horsemen (and horsewomen) :)
If we do not listen to our horses and trust them - how can we expect them to do the same?
The Chiropractor i used to assess Spices back is based in North Somerset and can be found on the following website: http://www.thebacklady.co.uk
Sunday 16 May 2010
131. Nature versus Nurture - Knowing when to intervene...
Something i have recently been thinking about is how to know when to let 'nature take its course' or when to lend it a helping hand...
There seem to be two schools of thought on the dreaded abscessing...one to find the entry point and drain as soon as possible and two to let it come out by itself. The latter tend to be the school of thought of the barefoot trimmers and the former the school of thought of the farriers and vets...So who is right?
Common sense tells me that if you have an infection in your body the first thing you want to do is get rid of it i.e before it develops into anything serious and gets into the bloodstream.
However, there is the idea that if we never allow our bodies to deal with infection they might never build up the antibodies to fight them...which may weaken their immune system and make them reliant upon us.
But more importantly it seems that when abscesses are drained (usually by digging a hole in the sole) there's a very good chance that you wont drain everything because you are relying solely on gravity - which lets face it as soon as the horse puts its foot down on ground is going to be somewhat compromised. However, it seems that those which are left become so pressurized that when they finally burst they seem to do so entirely.
In relation to the question above i think it is critical to assess a horses environment before deciding on which treatment to offer. I can see that the invasive route in a clean stall environment where poulticing was easy would quicken the recovery time and ease the horse of its discomfort sooner but in a more natural field environment - especially in the winter months you would have a very hard job keeping the hoof clean and probably therefore struggle to keep the abscess draining and prolong the recovery time.
I therefore think vets should consider how a horse is kept before taking any course of action as after care is often of paramount importance when invasive procedures are performed.
There seem to be two schools of thought on the dreaded abscessing...one to find the entry point and drain as soon as possible and two to let it come out by itself. The latter tend to be the school of thought of the barefoot trimmers and the former the school of thought of the farriers and vets...So who is right?
Common sense tells me that if you have an infection in your body the first thing you want to do is get rid of it i.e before it develops into anything serious and gets into the bloodstream.
However, there is the idea that if we never allow our bodies to deal with infection they might never build up the antibodies to fight them...which may weaken their immune system and make them reliant upon us.
But more importantly it seems that when abscesses are drained (usually by digging a hole in the sole) there's a very good chance that you wont drain everything because you are relying solely on gravity - which lets face it as soon as the horse puts its foot down on ground is going to be somewhat compromised. However, it seems that those which are left become so pressurized that when they finally burst they seem to do so entirely.
In relation to the question above i think it is critical to assess a horses environment before deciding on which treatment to offer. I can see that the invasive route in a clean stall environment where poulticing was easy would quicken the recovery time and ease the horse of its discomfort sooner but in a more natural field environment - especially in the winter months you would have a very hard job keeping the hoof clean and probably therefore struggle to keep the abscess draining and prolong the recovery time.
I therefore think vets should consider how a horse is kept before taking any course of action as after care is often of paramount importance when invasive procedures are performed.
130. Assessing Lameness...
Tomorrow i have a Chiropractor coming to see Spice just to check her over as she is still lame in trot (although thankfully not to the same scale she was) and she also hasn't had her back checked since last October so i thought it would be a good idea. I am still convinced that it is her hoof which is causing the lameness although my farrier wasn't so it will be interesting to see if we get any closer to finding out what is. In a way i hope it is her hoof as i know it will just be a matter of time until the hoof grows out and that hopefully any lameness will then subside.
Each day that goes by, i see a slight improvement in her movement and for at least the past two days she has been far more lively and alert indicating i think that she is on the mend.
I am due to stop her danilon (painkiller) in a couple of days time so i only hope that her high spirits remain and are not simply due to the painkiller.
I am so eager to start doing things with her again. I can't help but feel we have taken a few steps backwards in view of the fact that we haven't done anything for so long so i imagine i will have to start gently and go over some old stuff with her.
The first thing i will definitely do is make sure i have hoof boots which fit her. So far, i have purchased Easy boot gloves for her hind hooves and will hopefully be getting some Renegades for her front hooves. This way at least i can start going hacking with her again which is something i am desperate to do.
However, before i start hacking her out again i will have to get her fit again - as although she hasn't put on any weight (in fact she's lost it if anything) she has lost muscle tone - especially around her top line so hopefully i will get to use our new passoa soon.
I am currently feeding her Speedi Beet and Happy hoof which seems to be agreeing with her but i would like her to gain some weight so might look for a feed slightly more calorific but still low in sugar if that exists!
Each day that goes by, i see a slight improvement in her movement and for at least the past two days she has been far more lively and alert indicating i think that she is on the mend.
I am due to stop her danilon (painkiller) in a couple of days time so i only hope that her high spirits remain and are not simply due to the painkiller.
I am so eager to start doing things with her again. I can't help but feel we have taken a few steps backwards in view of the fact that we haven't done anything for so long so i imagine i will have to start gently and go over some old stuff with her.
The first thing i will definitely do is make sure i have hoof boots which fit her. So far, i have purchased Easy boot gloves for her hind hooves and will hopefully be getting some Renegades for her front hooves. This way at least i can start going hacking with her again which is something i am desperate to do.
However, before i start hacking her out again i will have to get her fit again - as although she hasn't put on any weight (in fact she's lost it if anything) she has lost muscle tone - especially around her top line so hopefully i will get to use our new passoa soon.
I am currently feeding her Speedi Beet and Happy hoof which seems to be agreeing with her but i would like her to gain some weight so might look for a feed slightly more calorific but still low in sugar if that exists!
Saturday 15 May 2010
129. Hoof Cracks
In the last few days we have had some really dry weather and i have noticed that Spices hooves have started cracking a bit. I therefore think the dry weather may be making them slightly brittle so I have started sponging them down in the hope that they will retain more moisture and toughen up. I was doing this previously but stopped due to Spice having a bit of thrush. But i think just using a wet sponge over her hoof walls should do the trick. My thinking is that in the wild they would have access to water holes and probably get their hooves wet a few times each day so hopefully i'm just creating a more natural environment.
128. Vets, Farriers, Barefoot Trimmers, Chiropractors, Instructors, and Physios...
Today was the first day in a while that Spice actually trotted up to the gate on my arrival. So, i think she is feeling slightly better than she was yesterday....I even watched her canter around the field for a while which was a lovely reassuring site.
The day before yesterday i spoke to my barefoot trimmer, Sarah, who is so far one of a very few number of professionals i have met in the horse industry that is truly passionate about their welfare. You can tell that she is saddened by the way in which most horses are treated and that she always puts the horse first. She even said she wouldn't even ride a horse that wasn't hers due to the fact that she would feel as though she would just be 'using' it having not spent any time developing a bond with it.
She is 'all about the hoof' but has an incredible 'way' with horses. My friend recently said to me that in order to make a decision with regards Spice i had to put my trust into someone (which so far i have found hard to do) - for various reasons. But she's right i do need to trust someone and last night i decided to start trusting my barefoot trimmer - not only because i think she has a really kind soul but also because she is a hoof specialist and who better to help Spice through her transition than someone who knows the hoof inside out? In my view, 'most' vets are like GPs they know a bit about everything but not 'enough' about each thing. Most farriers are probably brilliant at shoeing and doing remedial work to the hoof but again because they haven't specialised in how to transition a shod horse to being unshod are they likely to be the best person to put your trust in?
I trust my barefoot trimmer on a personal level not just because of what she is but because of who she is. I love people who are passionate about horses to the point where they put them first and i believe my barefoot trimmer has this kind of passion...i only wish more professionals did.
The day before yesterday i spoke to my barefoot trimmer, Sarah, who is so far one of a very few number of professionals i have met in the horse industry that is truly passionate about their welfare. You can tell that she is saddened by the way in which most horses are treated and that she always puts the horse first. She even said she wouldn't even ride a horse that wasn't hers due to the fact that she would feel as though she would just be 'using' it having not spent any time developing a bond with it.
She is 'all about the hoof' but has an incredible 'way' with horses. My friend recently said to me that in order to make a decision with regards Spice i had to put my trust into someone (which so far i have found hard to do) - for various reasons. But she's right i do need to trust someone and last night i decided to start trusting my barefoot trimmer - not only because i think she has a really kind soul but also because she is a hoof specialist and who better to help Spice through her transition than someone who knows the hoof inside out? In my view, 'most' vets are like GPs they know a bit about everything but not 'enough' about each thing. Most farriers are probably brilliant at shoeing and doing remedial work to the hoof but again because they haven't specialised in how to transition a shod horse to being unshod are they likely to be the best person to put your trust in?
I trust my barefoot trimmer on a personal level not just because of what she is but because of who she is. I love people who are passionate about horses to the point where they put them first and i believe my barefoot trimmer has this kind of passion...i only wish more professionals did.
Thursday 13 May 2010
127. Do good things really come to those who wait?
So, an update on Spice, unfortunately she is more lame today than she was yesterday i.e is now noticeably lame in walk which leads me to believe that it is her hoof which is causing the lameness as yesterday the farrier filed off the crack (caused by the abscess) and false sole due to the fact that he thought it could easily harbour bacteria but in doing so has left her with around a 2-3cms gap in the back quarter of her hoof which i feel is the real reason for her lameness. I don't doubt she has muscular soreness and stiffness as a result but i think the cause lies within the hoof. The only good thing at the moment is that mentally she seems to be coping well, she's got a huge appetite as always and is bright eyed so that reassures me at least that she is coping with the pain - (although i am giving her one dannilon a day.)
I estimate that it will be another two months before the hoof has re-grown and looks normal again so no riding for a while yet. Having looked back at my notes i first noticed signs of lameness on the 8th April just before the abscess re-occurred so it has now been 5 weeks since the onset of the lameness.
I am still going to have her back checked as i think it would be beneficial to make sure that the lameness doesn't cause any permanent damage.
Until next time...
I estimate that it will be another two months before the hoof has re-grown and looks normal again so no riding for a while yet. Having looked back at my notes i first noticed signs of lameness on the 8th April just before the abscess re-occurred so it has now been 5 weeks since the onset of the lameness.
I am still going to have her back checked as i think it would be beneficial to make sure that the lameness doesn't cause any permanent damage.
Until next time...
Wednesday 12 May 2010
126. The Barefoot Transition Continues...(aswell as the lameness)
Today i had the farrier come to see Spice to see if he thought that putting shoes back on her would eradicate the lameness but much to my surprise he suggested that i get her back checked as he thought the lameness could be muscular driven.
So, for now Spice stays unshod as he didn't see the point in putting shoes on if the lameness wasn't due to her hooves. He gave them a good check over and couldn't find any signs of abscessing or bruising so that's the good news.
I also asked him what his opinion of Spices hooves were and again much to my surprise he said that she had good hooves that were not genetically weak in anyway but that the quality/integrity of her hind hoof had obviously been compromised by the abscess and was therefore weaker than all the rest (hence the cracking).
So, at this moment in time i am once again undecided as to which way to go. If i arrange for the physio therapist to see Spice asap as well as get the vet to come and do a flexion test again i should hopefully have a clearer idea of what to do. If the farrier had have said 'she definitely needs shoes' i'd have had him put them back on her in a flash but as he didn't i guess all i can do is wait and see. God i've done 4 months so what's another month hey?
I just really need to get to the bottom of this lameness issue which hopefully i will do.
So, for now Spice stays unshod as he didn't see the point in putting shoes on if the lameness wasn't due to her hooves. He gave them a good check over and couldn't find any signs of abscessing or bruising so that's the good news.
I also asked him what his opinion of Spices hooves were and again much to my surprise he said that she had good hooves that were not genetically weak in anyway but that the quality/integrity of her hind hoof had obviously been compromised by the abscess and was therefore weaker than all the rest (hence the cracking).
So, at this moment in time i am once again undecided as to which way to go. If i arrange for the physio therapist to see Spice asap as well as get the vet to come and do a flexion test again i should hopefully have a clearer idea of what to do. If the farrier had have said 'she definitely needs shoes' i'd have had him put them back on her in a flash but as he didn't i guess all i can do is wait and see. God i've done 4 months so what's another month hey?
I just really need to get to the bottom of this lameness issue which hopefully i will do.
Monday 10 May 2010
125. Horse shoes - a necessary evil?
So, i have made a decision with regards Spices hooves and unfortunately that is to put shoes back on her. Having persisted for 4 months with attention to diet, turnout and work load i feel i have given it my very best shot and now is the time to face up to reality. Someone once said to me that 'every horse can go barefoot but not every owner can' and at the time i believed this statement to be true but having seen Spice get progressively worse over the last 4 months i can honestly say that i don't think it is. Perhaps if Spice was never shod in the first place she'd have had more of a chance of succeeding - that i will never know but at present i believe her hooves are just to weak to go through the transition. She seems constantly uncomfortable and that's just being on grass without being ridden so i know that for her to be sound on roads even if it is at all possible would take another year at least and in the meanwhile what do i do watch her suffer and become so stiff she can hardly walk?
I feel that a lot of the barefoot stories you read always end in success but i'm betting that there's a hell of a lot that don't so i wanted to be honest and tell everyone about giving up because i think horse owners should try to remain as open minded about this subject as possible.
I do believe that it is Spice's genetics which have led to this failure (although i know there are barefoot thoroughbreds out there). But bare in mind that a typical thoroughbreds hooves are likely to be weaker than those of a native breed. Just like some humans have thin nails some horses have thin walls.
Just like some horses grow a thick winter coat some horses don't because some have been bred to be fine and fast so rather a horses coat is replaced with a rug as are its hooves replaced with shoes.
Why am i not going to put hoof boots on Spice? Because if she's lame in grass i don't believe hoof boots will make her sound. And what if i lose a boot during a ride and she steps on a sharp stone which punctures her sole and gives her another abscess? My friends thoroughbred horse had 9 abscesses in one year and that happened just being out in the field!
Of course there are other alternatives to hoof boots...plastic shoes which are undoubtedly better for your horse but at £175.00's a pair are also completely unaffordable for me at least.
http://www.imprintsport.com/
I am glad i tried going barefoot with Spice because i have learned heaps and it forced me spend some much needed time with her on the ground.
But i would like to point out to anyone else considering going barefoot that if your horse has genetically weak hooves then you may be fighting a losing battle - no matter how hard you try.
I guess the difficult thing is finding a professional who will give you an honest unbiased assessment of your horses hooves. I know two barefoot trimmers told me that genetically Spice had strong hooves but then again they were barefoot trimmers and i'm guessing a farrier would say the opposite and my vets comments were 'she has very flat soles and thin walls so you're probably going to have to put shes back on her'...so who do you believe?
Personally, i think the vets opinion is likely to be the least biased so i would probably start there and if they are of the opinion that your horse needs shoes - it probably does.
Spice is only a quarter thoroughbred, half appaloosa and something else so she isn't even 100% thoroughbred but looking at her you would probably think she was.
For those considering going barefoot, Linda Cowles from HealthyHoof.com offers the following advice...
Removing the shoes from a marginally sound horse and giving it a good trim doesn't miraculously cure the effects of years of imbalance, inappropriate diet, thrush or poor shoeing.
If your horse has been living with pain for months or years, be prepared to develop a simple therapeutic plan that will increase your odds of ending the tremendous emotional and financial drain you've experienced once and for all. Your horse can often be sound in a few months, but you need to be able to change how you feed him and manage his feet.
Healing Takes More Than A Good Trim!
Clients who proactively invest in supportive modalities like dietary assessment, acupressure, body work, dentistry, thorough saddle fitting, nutritional self-education and chiropractic, increase the odds that their horse will experience a good degree of soundness. Other rehab accelerators are instituting a routine exercise program; using boots and pads to improve movement quality; and improving the horses environment to eliminate the potential for thrush and laminitis.
The fact is, pathological horses need to develop and strengthen their internal hoof structures, and to do that they need consistent exercise with correct movement.
A horse that is hobbling around sore gets minimal benefit from the movement because toe-first movement, typical in horses with hoof pain, delays or prohibits that horses rehabilitation. Clients who invest in riding or rehab boots used with dense sole and frog pads to stimulate good heel, sole, and frog development, see comparably dramatic changes. Some horses need boots around the clock initially, but most do fine using boots only for exercise.
Plan To Succeed!
I suggest that all of my clients read the articles on Pete Ramey's http.www.hoofrehab.com web site and visit http://www.ironfreehoof.com/. These are two of the many places I go when I need answers or information. I'm humbled by the ability horses have to overcome years of imbalance and distortion, and by the depth of their owners care and compassion.
I also suggest that clients assess their horses diets and prepare to change how they feel about things like uncontrolled pasture access, grain and grazing muzzles. Safergrass.org http://www.safergrass.org/ and Dr Eleanor Kellon's site http://www.drkellon.com/ both give responsible owners a great place to start assessing diets.
Assessing Health & Level of Soundness Before & After Shoes Are Removed
I assess movement before and after a trim; movement assessment is one of the best tools a trimmer has.
When a horse is chronically unsound or has an extreme pathology, I suggest that clients have X-rays taken, and if it appears that the horse has metabolic problems, I also suggest testing the blood for glucose and insulin levels.
If a horse's pain could be structural or the result of muscle problems, chiropractors or body workers be consulted, and if a horse has symptoms that lead towards ulcers and gastric distress, a vet needs to be called in.
Soundness doesn't begin and end at the hoof.
Do all trimmers recognize all of these symptoms or suggest these tests? No. We aren't vets, and we aren't body workers, but seeing horses on a regular 4 to 6 week schedule and trying to help chronically unsound horses become sounder eventually teaches more perceptive trimmers to look for clues about the root cause of unsoundness.
If the previous farrier removed excessive amounts of sole, frog and bar when trimming, I suggest leaving the shoes on longer, allowing the sole to thicken and mature, and let the trimmer remove the shoes to ensure that its done correctly. When the sole has been excessively thinned, or the horse has laminitis, rehab boots and pads (I often suggest Old Mac's because they are also a riding boot) may be used around the clock until the sole has developed adequate density.
A good barefoot hoof care provider is in the business of improving a horses level of soundness, so if a horse is unsound, your trimmer should be interested - even if they can't resolve the problem personally. Unsoundness can be a result of body pain, tendon injury or internal problems. Keep your trimmer in the loop.
Emphasize Replacing Shoes with Boots & Pads - NOT Removing Shoes
Hoof protection is important immediately after removing shoes unless a horse has great feet and a perfect rehab environment. With some exceptions, I require clients to buy front boots. Sometimes rear boots are required.
Your hoof care provider should be able to fit and adjust a variety of boots, and should stock at least one brand of boots. They should be able to explain booting and padding to ensure that you understand the benefit of boots over shoes and to reinforce the value of booting through transitions.
Its a good idea to take regular pictures and take notes of your horses transition; it's easy to forget how bad a horses feet were when the transition started.
The Transition Process
Pull Shoes, Trim and Bevel, Fit Boots & Pads -- And Ride!! If your horse was sound in shoes? Once shoes are off, I suggest that my clients use boots when necessary for hand walking, turnout and stall use.
In essence, use boots if needed to keep horse moving correctly and comfortably. Many transitioning horses don't need boots except for trails, but boots are critical for tender feet, and inadequate booting results in significantly longer transitions.
Most horses coming out of shoes need some protection for trail riding, and many owners don't recognize poor movement, so if you aren't sure about the quality of your horses movement, get used to riding in boots. It'll pay off in the long run.
The Myth About Building Tough Feet - When I first started taking my horses barefoot, I was told to ride over gravel and rocky trails barefoot to "toughen feet up". It made sense, but my horses feet got progressively more tender until they could barely move in pasture. Their soles were too thin and immature from having years of shoes followed by inappropriate farrier pasture trims and imbalance to move correctly on hard, rough surfaces. Attempting to rush hoof development by riding barefoot when soles are tender will reverse or extend the transition period.
It takes most un-shod horses several months to a year to develop into a "Gravel Cruncher", and some horses will always need boots on tough gravel. A hint is that the better your horses diet is (low carb hay, low to no grain or molasses, no high carb pasture) the faster your horses feet will transition and the stronger they will become.
Properly fit boots are easy to use with a little practice, and vendors like Easy Care provide educational materials and support if your trimmer isn't available to help you. Your trimmer should stock and sell at least the EasyCare products (the industry leader) including the pads, but should also know about popular boots like Renegade and rehab boots like the Soft Rides.
Boots protect feet with flat soles, weak heel buttresses, sole bruising, white line separation and tender frogs. Horses that are extremely tender can be helped more by adding padding and boots full time for the first few weeks to accelerate their transition.
When Do Sole Pads Help Transitioning Horses? I put Easy Care Dome Pads in the boots of most of my coming-out-of-shoes clients; I like their density, the pads make the boots feel tighter, and the cushioning improves the movement of most horses. Some flat footed horses need Comfort pads, which are thinner.
When Do Frog Pads Help Transitioning Horses? If a horse has atrophied frogs and has compromised movement, I cut frog shaped wedges out of a foam kneeling pad (sold in garden departments) and tape the wedge to the sole of the boot where the frog will hit, then boot the horse and walk it out to see if it encourages better movement. If it does, I duct tape the frog pad firmly in place in the sole of the boot. EasyCare also sells frog pads.
How To Support Good Hoof Development During the Transition
Hoof and Frog Health - Oxine thrush soak and topical thrush treatments like Usnea, Pete's Goo and Oxine provide a way to eliminate Thrush forever. I suggest several days of daily 20 minute Oxine soaking sessions to most clients after the shoes come off. See my Links Page's Thrush section here:.
Environment - See my Passive Conditioning web page for information on providing a good environment for growing a better hoof , or my Links Page's Horse Environment section.
Regular Exercise - Provide a turnout environment that encourages the horse to exercise a few hours a day, or provide 1 hour a day of brisk hand walking or riding. Successful transitions are dependent on your horse getting adequate exercise in comfortable footing or hoof boots.
Good Nutrition - Diet is critical! High grain / alfalfa diets aren't healthy for your horse, and correct supplements support your horses rehab. If your horse has a history of laminitis or founder, has a cresty neck or is over weight, have your vet test it for Insulin Resistance and Cushing's. See my links pages selection of Diet links for more information. Safergrass.org http://www.safergrass.org/ and Dr Eleanor Kellon's site http://www.drkellon.com/ help owners start assessing diets.
Transitions Take Time
Transitions take time because the damaged and under-developed areas of your horses feet need to heal and grow strong. The only good way to "rush through a barefoot transition" is to follow the basic advice to the letter, get boots and pads for all four feet, and exercise your horse frequently and adequately. The more effort you put into your horses transition, the more your horse will get out of it.
Transition Requirements have a greater impact when you are trying to restore the soundness of an unsound horse.
Keep Your Horse Comfortable & Moving!
Transitions can be particularly uncomfortable for horses who were lame or tender before beginning a transition, and horses diagnosed with navicular, side bone and ring bone are usually sound once they are completely transitioned to barefoot. Their feet need to develop and their soles thicken and mature before that happens.
Early phase hoof discomfort is often caused by thrush or abscesses due to laminitis. Some of the discomfort a horse experiences in early transition phases may be due to thin soles, hoof remodeling or development.
Abscesses are particularly painful, and an an abscessing horse may act as if his or her foot is broken. When my clients describe an abscess, I suggest that they soak the foot in warm Epsom Salts water several times a day. I personally never dig abscesses out, preferring to soak the foot and encourage the abscess to vent naturally. See my Abscess Page for more information, and contact your hoof care provider with concerns or questions.
If your horse has abscessed, its always a good idea to recheck your diet, because mild (sub-clinical) laminitis caused by dietary imbalance is a common cause of abscessing. Laminitis can also be a result of vaccinations, hard riding or inappropriate trimming.
Responding To Skeptics Concerns About Barefoot
Once the shoes are off, take a good look at your horse and be honest with yourself and your skeptics about how comfortable or uncomfortable the horse actually is and why.
Under what circumstances is your horse uncomfortable, and how severe is that discomfort?
Does the discomfort go away when boots or boots and pads are used?
Do you use boots adequately?
Is the discomfort worse than it was when the horse was shod?
Has your hoof care provider been consulted about it?
Most of my clients describe conversations they have had with their friends, vets and associates about the advisability / sanity of barefoot transitions, and while they are comfortable with their decision to take their horses barefoot, they feel challenged by the skepticism and advice offered by people who see their horse slow down when it gets to a patch of gravel when walking around the barn without boots. I invite folks to watch me trim and ask questions even though it slows me down.
Horses *can* be hurt by invasive trims! There are many reports of horses being over trimmed, radically and unnecessarily, by well intentioned trimmers who were trained to use techniques now thought to be invasive. The best response to skepticism is to use a conservative trimmer with a history of being able to help horses like yours, then follow the necessary transition requirements and wait the skeptics out. Let your horses emerging soundness speak for you.
Every horse's transition is unique. Hoof care providers aren't all clairvoyant or psychic, so while they may have more expertise with tough transitions than owners, they can't miraculously make your horse sound or unsound. Hoof care providers trim feet to the best of their ability, most of us fit boots, suggest padding and give advice, but the bulk of the care and management of newly unshod horses is in the hands of their owner.
If Your Horse Isn't Moving Comfortably Without Boots After a Few Months...
PLEASE be open with your trimmer about how comfortable your horse is the day after a trim! I recently had a client whose draft horse I've trimmed for a year tell me that his horse is tender for a week after a trim, yet when I would go to trim the horse and ask how he'd been, I was told "fine". We can't help you if you try to not upset us with "bad news"!
Here are several reasons horses will be uncomfortable on "average" footing after a few months:
* Horses who were chronically unsound at the beginning of the transition may have internal problems that take time to heal or reverse.
* Horses on rich diets (any grain or grain based pellets, feed containing any molasses, oat and grain hays, green pasture) or with symptoms of Insulin Resistance, Cushing's, Laminitis or Founder.
* Horses with thrush
* Horses with chronic body pain or discomfort. Lameness is often a response to pain above the coronet band!
Early discomfort occurs because the horses feet need time to develop and toughen, but if your horse isn't moving well on good footing without boots after six months and if you have provided an appropriate diet (low carb grass hay, little to no grain), environment, exercise on good footing (flat, dry dirt, sand, deep pea gravel or or mats) or in boots, and you have treated for thrush even if you are sure your horse is okay, you need to revisit the situation. The trim may need to change! Or you may need to recheck your diet plan, saddle fit.
A vet or body worker assessment is advisable at this point, because the problem may be internal to the foot or leg.
We all hate moving from what may be an ideal barn for us, but if it isn't working for our horse and we can't modify the environment to suit our horse, moving is advisable. Barefoot isn't a quick fix or miracle cure, it's a lifestyle change for your horse.
Top Five Transition Challenges
Some horses feet have conditions that make their transition particularly challenging. Sometimes these challenges only impact the difficulty of the trim and don't impact the time it takes to transition, but some of the conditions extend a transition time out until the entire wall has re grown.
Thrush & Diet
I sound like a broken record on this, but Thrush and an inappropriate Diet are the primary reasons the horses I see have foot problems. When horses have tendon and ligament injuries? navicular? If you look at the hoof, you usually see contracted heels, imbalance, long toes, chipping walls, flare, and somewhere in that mess is thrush and a diet that is too rich for an equine.
Thin / Flat Soles
It takes several months of beveled trimming and solid hoof wall to allow for the development of a healthy, concave sole with adequate strength to support the "bony column" (the coffin bone and leg) and lift the sole above most gravel and debris.
A good bevel rounds the bottom of the wall so that it doesn't flare; instead, the beveled edge transfers pressure upwards from the walls edge towards the center of the hoof, encouraging the development of concavity and preserving the developing sole. It's important to find a hoof care provider who knows how to bevel the edge of the wall correctly.
Contracted Heels, Atrophied Frogs, Thrushy Frogs
Maintenance therapy includes having your hoof care provider trim the frogs loose flaps and open any cavities. The owner needs to soak the foot regularly until all signs of thrush are gone, then provide dry footing or deep pea gravel to insure that the thrush stays gone. Soft footing like shavings holds moisture and encourages thrush to develop.
See my Thrush article for more information
Laid Over Bars / Under-run / Under Developed Heels / Long Toes
These conditions can almost always be reversed with regular barefoot maintenance.
Laid-over bars - This condition occurs when there is inadequate depth in the hoof capsule for the bars to be upright, and its corrected by providing a good, non-invasive trim that allows sole to build a thick, durable dome that is capable of supporting the weight of the horse as its transferred to the coffin bone. Ritually thinning the sole in order to provide a surface to nail on shoes is the primary cause of the loss of capsule depth that results in laid-over bars.
Under-run and under developed heels - This is one of those "what came first, chicken or the egg" scenarios. Under-run heels are seen in conjunction with long toes; when a horse has a long inside toe quarter, it also has an under-run outside heel quarter. I feel that long toes are a result of toe-first landings, and my approach to correct them is to treat the horse for thrush (even if its not apparent) and keep the wall at the toes back in line with the coffin bone.
These horses, even when the condition is chronic, are usually sound in boots and pads for trail and arena work.
Depending on how long the horse has had this condition, it takes several months to restore the foot to a normal shape, and in the case of severely contracted or under-run heels, it may take several years. Sometimes the coffin bone has remodeled significantly, and we've seen that much of that remodeling is reversible to some extent.
Thin / Weak Poorly Attached Walls
Walls, Walls, Walls, Walls, Walls!!!
Thin, weak walls grow out fast once the shoes are removed and good circulation has been restored to the hoof. Dr Diane Isabel, a research partner of Dr Bowker's, did research on blood supply restriction in feet that are peripherally loaded, and while I don't have the study at the moment (it was quoted several times by Dr Bowker), my understanding is that blood flow into the hoof was reduced significantly (60% to 80%) when a hoof was peripherally loaded, i.e., shod.
What this means to you is that while a 8mm to 12mm wall thickness is "normal" on a shod horse, a healthy bare hoof wall quickly grows to be 15mm to 25mm thick, and is much denser than the wall on a shod hoof.
White line separation or a stretched white line is the bane of transitions and is caused directly by a too rich diet! Transitioning trimmers and owners wait for 4 to 5 months for the wall to grow a super solid hoof wall with a tight white line connection, but those changes are visible in a month or two on the right diet..
Wall Flare and dished walls - excessive wall length causes one side of the hoof to bend inward or bulge outward.
Wry foot - horse wears the outer walls excessively. This is often a result of chronic thrush but also typically involves diet.
Cracks - can be the result of coronet or tubule damage or wall imbalance
Linda Cowles Hoof Care
Serving the greater SF Bay Area & Northern California
I feel that a lot of the barefoot stories you read always end in success but i'm betting that there's a hell of a lot that don't so i wanted to be honest and tell everyone about giving up because i think horse owners should try to remain as open minded about this subject as possible.
I do believe that it is Spice's genetics which have led to this failure (although i know there are barefoot thoroughbreds out there). But bare in mind that a typical thoroughbreds hooves are likely to be weaker than those of a native breed. Just like some humans have thin nails some horses have thin walls.
Just like some horses grow a thick winter coat some horses don't because some have been bred to be fine and fast so rather a horses coat is replaced with a rug as are its hooves replaced with shoes.
Why am i not going to put hoof boots on Spice? Because if she's lame in grass i don't believe hoof boots will make her sound. And what if i lose a boot during a ride and she steps on a sharp stone which punctures her sole and gives her another abscess? My friends thoroughbred horse had 9 abscesses in one year and that happened just being out in the field!
Of course there are other alternatives to hoof boots...plastic shoes which are undoubtedly better for your horse but at £175.00's a pair are also completely unaffordable for me at least.
http://www.imprintsport.com/
I am glad i tried going barefoot with Spice because i have learned heaps and it forced me spend some much needed time with her on the ground.
But i would like to point out to anyone else considering going barefoot that if your horse has genetically weak hooves then you may be fighting a losing battle - no matter how hard you try.
I guess the difficult thing is finding a professional who will give you an honest unbiased assessment of your horses hooves. I know two barefoot trimmers told me that genetically Spice had strong hooves but then again they were barefoot trimmers and i'm guessing a farrier would say the opposite and my vets comments were 'she has very flat soles and thin walls so you're probably going to have to put shes back on her'...so who do you believe?
Personally, i think the vets opinion is likely to be the least biased so i would probably start there and if they are of the opinion that your horse needs shoes - it probably does.
Spice is only a quarter thoroughbred, half appaloosa and something else so she isn't even 100% thoroughbred but looking at her you would probably think she was.
For those considering going barefoot, Linda Cowles from HealthyHoof.com offers the following advice...
Removing the shoes from a marginally sound horse and giving it a good trim doesn't miraculously cure the effects of years of imbalance, inappropriate diet, thrush or poor shoeing.
If your horse has been living with pain for months or years, be prepared to develop a simple therapeutic plan that will increase your odds of ending the tremendous emotional and financial drain you've experienced once and for all. Your horse can often be sound in a few months, but you need to be able to change how you feed him and manage his feet.
Healing Takes More Than A Good Trim!
Clients who proactively invest in supportive modalities like dietary assessment, acupressure, body work, dentistry, thorough saddle fitting, nutritional self-education and chiropractic, increase the odds that their horse will experience a good degree of soundness. Other rehab accelerators are instituting a routine exercise program; using boots and pads to improve movement quality; and improving the horses environment to eliminate the potential for thrush and laminitis.
The fact is, pathological horses need to develop and strengthen their internal hoof structures, and to do that they need consistent exercise with correct movement.
A horse that is hobbling around sore gets minimal benefit from the movement because toe-first movement, typical in horses with hoof pain, delays or prohibits that horses rehabilitation. Clients who invest in riding or rehab boots used with dense sole and frog pads to stimulate good heel, sole, and frog development, see comparably dramatic changes. Some horses need boots around the clock initially, but most do fine using boots only for exercise.
Plan To Succeed!
I suggest that all of my clients read the articles on Pete Ramey's http.www.hoofrehab.com web site and visit http://www.ironfreehoof.com/. These are two of the many places I go when I need answers or information. I'm humbled by the ability horses have to overcome years of imbalance and distortion, and by the depth of their owners care and compassion.
I also suggest that clients assess their horses diets and prepare to change how they feel about things like uncontrolled pasture access, grain and grazing muzzles. Safergrass.org http://www.safergrass.org/ and Dr Eleanor Kellon's site http://www.drkellon.com/ both give responsible owners a great place to start assessing diets.
Assessing Health & Level of Soundness Before & After Shoes Are Removed
I assess movement before and after a trim; movement assessment is one of the best tools a trimmer has.
When a horse is chronically unsound or has an extreme pathology, I suggest that clients have X-rays taken, and if it appears that the horse has metabolic problems, I also suggest testing the blood for glucose and insulin levels.
If a horse's pain could be structural or the result of muscle problems, chiropractors or body workers be consulted, and if a horse has symptoms that lead towards ulcers and gastric distress, a vet needs to be called in.
Soundness doesn't begin and end at the hoof.
Do all trimmers recognize all of these symptoms or suggest these tests? No. We aren't vets, and we aren't body workers, but seeing horses on a regular 4 to 6 week schedule and trying to help chronically unsound horses become sounder eventually teaches more perceptive trimmers to look for clues about the root cause of unsoundness.
If the previous farrier removed excessive amounts of sole, frog and bar when trimming, I suggest leaving the shoes on longer, allowing the sole to thicken and mature, and let the trimmer remove the shoes to ensure that its done correctly. When the sole has been excessively thinned, or the horse has laminitis, rehab boots and pads (I often suggest Old Mac's because they are also a riding boot) may be used around the clock until the sole has developed adequate density.
A good barefoot hoof care provider is in the business of improving a horses level of soundness, so if a horse is unsound, your trimmer should be interested - even if they can't resolve the problem personally. Unsoundness can be a result of body pain, tendon injury or internal problems. Keep your trimmer in the loop.
Emphasize Replacing Shoes with Boots & Pads - NOT Removing Shoes
Hoof protection is important immediately after removing shoes unless a horse has great feet and a perfect rehab environment. With some exceptions, I require clients to buy front boots. Sometimes rear boots are required.
Your hoof care provider should be able to fit and adjust a variety of boots, and should stock at least one brand of boots. They should be able to explain booting and padding to ensure that you understand the benefit of boots over shoes and to reinforce the value of booting through transitions.
Its a good idea to take regular pictures and take notes of your horses transition; it's easy to forget how bad a horses feet were when the transition started.
The Transition Process
Pull Shoes, Trim and Bevel, Fit Boots & Pads -- And Ride!! If your horse was sound in shoes? Once shoes are off, I suggest that my clients use boots when necessary for hand walking, turnout and stall use.
In essence, use boots if needed to keep horse moving correctly and comfortably. Many transitioning horses don't need boots except for trails, but boots are critical for tender feet, and inadequate booting results in significantly longer transitions.
Most horses coming out of shoes need some protection for trail riding, and many owners don't recognize poor movement, so if you aren't sure about the quality of your horses movement, get used to riding in boots. It'll pay off in the long run.
The Myth About Building Tough Feet - When I first started taking my horses barefoot, I was told to ride over gravel and rocky trails barefoot to "toughen feet up". It made sense, but my horses feet got progressively more tender until they could barely move in pasture. Their soles were too thin and immature from having years of shoes followed by inappropriate farrier pasture trims and imbalance to move correctly on hard, rough surfaces. Attempting to rush hoof development by riding barefoot when soles are tender will reverse or extend the transition period.
It takes most un-shod horses several months to a year to develop into a "Gravel Cruncher", and some horses will always need boots on tough gravel. A hint is that the better your horses diet is (low carb hay, low to no grain or molasses, no high carb pasture) the faster your horses feet will transition and the stronger they will become.
Properly fit boots are easy to use with a little practice, and vendors like Easy Care provide educational materials and support if your trimmer isn't available to help you. Your trimmer should stock and sell at least the EasyCare products (the industry leader) including the pads, but should also know about popular boots like Renegade and rehab boots like the Soft Rides.
Boots protect feet with flat soles, weak heel buttresses, sole bruising, white line separation and tender frogs. Horses that are extremely tender can be helped more by adding padding and boots full time for the first few weeks to accelerate their transition.
When Do Sole Pads Help Transitioning Horses? I put Easy Care Dome Pads in the boots of most of my coming-out-of-shoes clients; I like their density, the pads make the boots feel tighter, and the cushioning improves the movement of most horses. Some flat footed horses need Comfort pads, which are thinner.
When Do Frog Pads Help Transitioning Horses? If a horse has atrophied frogs and has compromised movement, I cut frog shaped wedges out of a foam kneeling pad (sold in garden departments) and tape the wedge to the sole of the boot where the frog will hit, then boot the horse and walk it out to see if it encourages better movement. If it does, I duct tape the frog pad firmly in place in the sole of the boot. EasyCare also sells frog pads.
How To Support Good Hoof Development During the Transition
Hoof and Frog Health - Oxine thrush soak and topical thrush treatments like Usnea, Pete's Goo and Oxine provide a way to eliminate Thrush forever. I suggest several days of daily 20 minute Oxine soaking sessions to most clients after the shoes come off. See my Links Page's Thrush section here:.
Environment - See my Passive Conditioning web page for information on providing a good environment for growing a better hoof , or my Links Page's Horse Environment section.
Regular Exercise - Provide a turnout environment that encourages the horse to exercise a few hours a day, or provide 1 hour a day of brisk hand walking or riding. Successful transitions are dependent on your horse getting adequate exercise in comfortable footing or hoof boots.
Good Nutrition - Diet is critical! High grain / alfalfa diets aren't healthy for your horse, and correct supplements support your horses rehab. If your horse has a history of laminitis or founder, has a cresty neck or is over weight, have your vet test it for Insulin Resistance and Cushing's. See my links pages selection of Diet links for more information. Safergrass.org http://www.safergrass.org/ and Dr Eleanor Kellon's site http://www.drkellon.com/ help owners start assessing diets.
Transitions Take Time
Transitions take time because the damaged and under-developed areas of your horses feet need to heal and grow strong. The only good way to "rush through a barefoot transition" is to follow the basic advice to the letter, get boots and pads for all four feet, and exercise your horse frequently and adequately. The more effort you put into your horses transition, the more your horse will get out of it.
Transition Requirements have a greater impact when you are trying to restore the soundness of an unsound horse.
Keep Your Horse Comfortable & Moving!
Transitions can be particularly uncomfortable for horses who were lame or tender before beginning a transition, and horses diagnosed with navicular, side bone and ring bone are usually sound once they are completely transitioned to barefoot. Their feet need to develop and their soles thicken and mature before that happens.
Early phase hoof discomfort is often caused by thrush or abscesses due to laminitis. Some of the discomfort a horse experiences in early transition phases may be due to thin soles, hoof remodeling or development.
Abscesses are particularly painful, and an an abscessing horse may act as if his or her foot is broken. When my clients describe an abscess, I suggest that they soak the foot in warm Epsom Salts water several times a day. I personally never dig abscesses out, preferring to soak the foot and encourage the abscess to vent naturally. See my Abscess Page for more information, and contact your hoof care provider with concerns or questions.
If your horse has abscessed, its always a good idea to recheck your diet, because mild (sub-clinical) laminitis caused by dietary imbalance is a common cause of abscessing. Laminitis can also be a result of vaccinations, hard riding or inappropriate trimming.
Responding To Skeptics Concerns About Barefoot
Once the shoes are off, take a good look at your horse and be honest with yourself and your skeptics about how comfortable or uncomfortable the horse actually is and why.
Under what circumstances is your horse uncomfortable, and how severe is that discomfort?
Does the discomfort go away when boots or boots and pads are used?
Do you use boots adequately?
Is the discomfort worse than it was when the horse was shod?
Has your hoof care provider been consulted about it?
Most of my clients describe conversations they have had with their friends, vets and associates about the advisability / sanity of barefoot transitions, and while they are comfortable with their decision to take their horses barefoot, they feel challenged by the skepticism and advice offered by people who see their horse slow down when it gets to a patch of gravel when walking around the barn without boots. I invite folks to watch me trim and ask questions even though it slows me down.
Horses *can* be hurt by invasive trims! There are many reports of horses being over trimmed, radically and unnecessarily, by well intentioned trimmers who were trained to use techniques now thought to be invasive. The best response to skepticism is to use a conservative trimmer with a history of being able to help horses like yours, then follow the necessary transition requirements and wait the skeptics out. Let your horses emerging soundness speak for you.
Every horse's transition is unique. Hoof care providers aren't all clairvoyant or psychic, so while they may have more expertise with tough transitions than owners, they can't miraculously make your horse sound or unsound. Hoof care providers trim feet to the best of their ability, most of us fit boots, suggest padding and give advice, but the bulk of the care and management of newly unshod horses is in the hands of their owner.
If Your Horse Isn't Moving Comfortably Without Boots After a Few Months...
PLEASE be open with your trimmer about how comfortable your horse is the day after a trim! I recently had a client whose draft horse I've trimmed for a year tell me that his horse is tender for a week after a trim, yet when I would go to trim the horse and ask how he'd been, I was told "fine". We can't help you if you try to not upset us with "bad news"!
Here are several reasons horses will be uncomfortable on "average" footing after a few months:
* Horses who were chronically unsound at the beginning of the transition may have internal problems that take time to heal or reverse.
* Horses on rich diets (any grain or grain based pellets, feed containing any molasses, oat and grain hays, green pasture) or with symptoms of Insulin Resistance, Cushing's, Laminitis or Founder.
* Horses with thrush
* Horses with chronic body pain or discomfort. Lameness is often a response to pain above the coronet band!
Early discomfort occurs because the horses feet need time to develop and toughen, but if your horse isn't moving well on good footing without boots after six months and if you have provided an appropriate diet (low carb grass hay, little to no grain), environment, exercise on good footing (flat, dry dirt, sand, deep pea gravel or or mats) or in boots, and you have treated for thrush even if you are sure your horse is okay, you need to revisit the situation. The trim may need to change! Or you may need to recheck your diet plan, saddle fit.
A vet or body worker assessment is advisable at this point, because the problem may be internal to the foot or leg.
We all hate moving from what may be an ideal barn for us, but if it isn't working for our horse and we can't modify the environment to suit our horse, moving is advisable. Barefoot isn't a quick fix or miracle cure, it's a lifestyle change for your horse.
Top Five Transition Challenges
Some horses feet have conditions that make their transition particularly challenging. Sometimes these challenges only impact the difficulty of the trim and don't impact the time it takes to transition, but some of the conditions extend a transition time out until the entire wall has re grown.
Thrush & Diet
I sound like a broken record on this, but Thrush and an inappropriate Diet are the primary reasons the horses I see have foot problems. When horses have tendon and ligament injuries? navicular? If you look at the hoof, you usually see contracted heels, imbalance, long toes, chipping walls, flare, and somewhere in that mess is thrush and a diet that is too rich for an equine.
Thin / Flat Soles
It takes several months of beveled trimming and solid hoof wall to allow for the development of a healthy, concave sole with adequate strength to support the "bony column" (the coffin bone and leg) and lift the sole above most gravel and debris.
A good bevel rounds the bottom of the wall so that it doesn't flare; instead, the beveled edge transfers pressure upwards from the walls edge towards the center of the hoof, encouraging the development of concavity and preserving the developing sole. It's important to find a hoof care provider who knows how to bevel the edge of the wall correctly.
Contracted Heels, Atrophied Frogs, Thrushy Frogs
Maintenance therapy includes having your hoof care provider trim the frogs loose flaps and open any cavities. The owner needs to soak the foot regularly until all signs of thrush are gone, then provide dry footing or deep pea gravel to insure that the thrush stays gone. Soft footing like shavings holds moisture and encourages thrush to develop.
See my Thrush article for more information
Laid Over Bars / Under-run / Under Developed Heels / Long Toes
These conditions can almost always be reversed with regular barefoot maintenance.
Laid-over bars - This condition occurs when there is inadequate depth in the hoof capsule for the bars to be upright, and its corrected by providing a good, non-invasive trim that allows sole to build a thick, durable dome that is capable of supporting the weight of the horse as its transferred to the coffin bone. Ritually thinning the sole in order to provide a surface to nail on shoes is the primary cause of the loss of capsule depth that results in laid-over bars.
Under-run and under developed heels - This is one of those "what came first, chicken or the egg" scenarios. Under-run heels are seen in conjunction with long toes; when a horse has a long inside toe quarter, it also has an under-run outside heel quarter. I feel that long toes are a result of toe-first landings, and my approach to correct them is to treat the horse for thrush (even if its not apparent) and keep the wall at the toes back in line with the coffin bone.
These horses, even when the condition is chronic, are usually sound in boots and pads for trail and arena work.
Depending on how long the horse has had this condition, it takes several months to restore the foot to a normal shape, and in the case of severely contracted or under-run heels, it may take several years. Sometimes the coffin bone has remodeled significantly, and we've seen that much of that remodeling is reversible to some extent.
Thin / Weak Poorly Attached Walls
Walls, Walls, Walls, Walls, Walls!!!
Thin, weak walls grow out fast once the shoes are removed and good circulation has been restored to the hoof. Dr Diane Isabel, a research partner of Dr Bowker's, did research on blood supply restriction in feet that are peripherally loaded, and while I don't have the study at the moment (it was quoted several times by Dr Bowker), my understanding is that blood flow into the hoof was reduced significantly (60% to 80%) when a hoof was peripherally loaded, i.e., shod.
What this means to you is that while a 8mm to 12mm wall thickness is "normal" on a shod horse, a healthy bare hoof wall quickly grows to be 15mm to 25mm thick, and is much denser than the wall on a shod hoof.
White line separation or a stretched white line is the bane of transitions and is caused directly by a too rich diet! Transitioning trimmers and owners wait for 4 to 5 months for the wall to grow a super solid hoof wall with a tight white line connection, but those changes are visible in a month or two on the right diet..
Wall Flare and dished walls - excessive wall length causes one side of the hoof to bend inward or bulge outward.
Wry foot - horse wears the outer walls excessively. This is often a result of chronic thrush but also typically involves diet.
Cracks - can be the result of coronet or tubule damage or wall imbalance
Linda Cowles Hoof Care
Serving the greater SF Bay Area & Northern California
Friday 7 May 2010
124. Hoof Care...
Hoof Care I: Foot Conformation and Balance
Dr Tim Watson BVM&S, PhD, MRCVS of the Equine Veterinary Clinic, Turingingshaw Farm, Houtson, Renfrewshire
No one needs reminding of the old adage “no foot, no horse”. Foot and specifically hoof problems are a very common cause of lameness, particularly of the forelimbs, in all types of horses and can seriously affect the value and saleability of your horse. These problems can be divided into three categories, namely abnormalities of foot conformation and balance, infectious disease (white line disease and thrush), and poor horn quality. Abnormalities of conformation and foot balance are discussed in this article; how to recognise and deal with infectious disease and poor horn quality will be addressed in a subsequent issue.
Normal foot conformation and balance
The forefoot should be round in shape and wide at the heels, with a sole that is slightly concave from side to side and front to back, and a frog that is well developed with a good cleft. Ideally there should be no contact between the sole and the ground; the sole is not a weight-bearing structure. A line drawn through the centre of the frog should point to the toe and divide the foot into two equal halves.
When viewed from the side, the dorsal (front) hoof wall should be aligned with the pastern and make an angle of 50-60O with the ground. The angle of the heel should correspond to that of the toe. Viewed from the front, the angles that the lateral (outside) and medial (inside) wall make with the ground should be similar and the coronary band should run concentric with the ground.
Abnormal conformation of the fore feet can be associated with flat and, or, thin soles, contracted and, or, collapsed heels and problems with medial-lateral (side to side) and dorsal-palmar (front to back) foot imbalance.
Flat and thin soles
Flat soles lead to unrealistic bearing of weight and concussion of the internal structures of the foot, notably the pedal bone, and are a risk factor for the development of chronic foot pain and pedal osteitis. Horses with flat soles often have very wide or flared hooves, giving the impression that the structures of the foot have ‘sunk’ as structural support from the hoof walls has been lost. If this is the case, then efforts should be made by the farrier to reshape the foot, removing the flares and fitting a shoe with side clips to prevent further expansion, and to fit a silicon or leather pad under shoe to protect the sole from concussion.
Flat soles are often associated with a weak hoof structure, which may be genetic or nutritional in origin or result from unusually high moisture content in the hoof. For this reason, I would recommend a good quality hoof supplement providing the essential nutrients for horn growth, specifically biotin, methionine and zinc. I don’t usually recommend using a hoof-hardener in these cases since making the sole harder will reduce the ability of the sole to cushion the internal structure of the foot from concussive forces.
Thin soles should be managed similarly, using a good nutritional supplement to improve horn quality and growth, and protecting the soles by fitting pads as required. If the soles are simply thin but otherwise concave and non-weight bearing, then I do recommend a hoof hardener to increase the resilience of the sole and protect the foot from stones and uneven ground.
Contracted heels
Contraction or narrowing of the heels can be caused by reduced use of the foot, for instance when the limb is injured and non-weight bearing for a period of time, or a long-toe low-heel foot shape. One or both heels of a foot can be contracted; this can be assessed from the width of the heels at the buttress, which should be similar to that of the hoof approximately 1 inch back from the toe. When a limb is under-used for a period of time, there is a reduction in the blood flow to the foot, causing a drop in moisture content of the hoof capsule, and a lack of pressure from the weight of the horse during movement that would otherwise expand the heels. In horse with long toes, the hoof elongates from toe to heel and the heels generally move closer together.
Contracted heels should be dealt with by first identifying and treating any underlying lameness, such that there is a return to normal weight bearing and movement, and then using an appropriate ‘hoof sealer’ to help retain moisture and prevent drying while having your farrier shoe the horse to allow for expansion of the heels.
Dorsal-palmar foot imbalance and under-run heels
Dorsal-palmar foot balance refers to the angle that the dorsal wall of the hoof makes with the ground. If this angle is too low, an imaginary line drawn parallel to the hoof wall through the centre of the pastern will be broken backwards at a point near the coronary band. Collapsed or under-run heels are commonly found in horses with dorsal-palmar foot imbalance (so-called long-toe low-heel conformation) and are identified by viewing the foot from the side, whereby it is obvious that the heels are short as the coronary band sits close to the ground and the angle of the heels to the ground is more acute that the angle of the toe.
Dorsal-palmar foot imbalance with a broken back hoof-pastern axis and under-run heels results in increased load-bearing of the palmar (back) structures of the foot and can lead to corns and abscesses, as well as placing excess strain on the flexor tendons and ligaments and increasing the risk of the horse developing of navicular syndrome. It is thus very important that this conformation is corrected by appropriate trimming of the foot and support of its palmar structures.
The toe of the hoof wall should be trimmed as short as is practical, often ‘squaring’ the toes to move the break-over point further back. The heels should be taken down only enough to obtain a good load-bearing surface of healthy horn and then shod so that there is more rearward support for the heels. This inevitably means fitting a shoe that overhangs the back of the heels, making it liable to be lost if trodden on by a back foot – this can be prevented by fitting the largest possible over-reach boots to the from feet.
Support for the heels can be improved by using a bar shoe, which spreads the weight bearing across the back of the frog and so reducing compressive forces that would otherwise counteract heel growth. The palmar structures of the foot can also be protected by fitting shoes (or inserts) with a wedge, which effectively raise the heels and so reduce strain on the flexor tendons and associated ligaments. Growth of healthy heel horn can be helped by the feeding of good quality nutritional supplements, together with the application of hoof oils or sealers that help the horn retain moisture and hence structure.
Medial-lateral foot imbalance
Medial-lateral foot balance refers to the relationship between the inside and outside walls of the foot. In trimming a foot, the goal is to achieve a ground surface that is centred beneath the limb and so allowing the hoof to bear the weight of the limb evenly. When there is imbalance, the weight is not evenly distributed and this can lead to excessive concussion of one side of the foot and consequent lameness. Medial-lateral imbalance can be detected by examining the symmetry of the hoof walls when viewed from the front, the extent to which a line drawn through the frog bisects the sole of the foot into two equal sized and shaped halves, and whether the foot lands evenly on both inside and outside walls when the horse walks.
Of all the abnormalities in hoof conformation and structure, medial-lateral imbalance is perhaps the easiest to fix, requiring appropriate trimming of one side of the foot to achieve normal balance. This said, problems can be encountered when there is outward or inward deviation of the limb, such that the foot does not sit squarely at the end of the limb, or when there is a twist in the lower limb. Such cases may require building up of one side in addition to trimming of the other side of the foot.
End note
The correction of abnormalities of foot balance and conformation requires the expertise and skills of a farrier. The views presented in this article represent those of the author and the management of individual cases is best achieved by close collaboration of owner, vet and farrier and the application of appropriate investigative and diagnostic techniques to fully characterise the abnormalities requiring attention.
Dr Tim Watson BVM&S, PhD, MRCVS of the Equine Veterinary Clinic, Turingingshaw Farm, Houtson, Renfrewshire
No one needs reminding of the old adage “no foot, no horse”. Foot and specifically hoof problems are a very common cause of lameness, particularly of the forelimbs, in all types of horses and can seriously affect the value and saleability of your horse. These problems can be divided into three categories, namely abnormalities of foot conformation and balance, infectious disease (white line disease and thrush), and poor horn quality. Abnormalities of conformation and foot balance are discussed in this article; how to recognise and deal with infectious disease and poor horn quality will be addressed in a subsequent issue.
Normal foot conformation and balance
The forefoot should be round in shape and wide at the heels, with a sole that is slightly concave from side to side and front to back, and a frog that is well developed with a good cleft. Ideally there should be no contact between the sole and the ground; the sole is not a weight-bearing structure. A line drawn through the centre of the frog should point to the toe and divide the foot into two equal halves.
When viewed from the side, the dorsal (front) hoof wall should be aligned with the pastern and make an angle of 50-60O with the ground. The angle of the heel should correspond to that of the toe. Viewed from the front, the angles that the lateral (outside) and medial (inside) wall make with the ground should be similar and the coronary band should run concentric with the ground.
Abnormal conformation of the fore feet can be associated with flat and, or, thin soles, contracted and, or, collapsed heels and problems with medial-lateral (side to side) and dorsal-palmar (front to back) foot imbalance.
Flat and thin soles
Flat soles lead to unrealistic bearing of weight and concussion of the internal structures of the foot, notably the pedal bone, and are a risk factor for the development of chronic foot pain and pedal osteitis. Horses with flat soles often have very wide or flared hooves, giving the impression that the structures of the foot have ‘sunk’ as structural support from the hoof walls has been lost. If this is the case, then efforts should be made by the farrier to reshape the foot, removing the flares and fitting a shoe with side clips to prevent further expansion, and to fit a silicon or leather pad under shoe to protect the sole from concussion.
Flat soles are often associated with a weak hoof structure, which may be genetic or nutritional in origin or result from unusually high moisture content in the hoof. For this reason, I would recommend a good quality hoof supplement providing the essential nutrients for horn growth, specifically biotin, methionine and zinc. I don’t usually recommend using a hoof-hardener in these cases since making the sole harder will reduce the ability of the sole to cushion the internal structure of the foot from concussive forces.
Thin soles should be managed similarly, using a good nutritional supplement to improve horn quality and growth, and protecting the soles by fitting pads as required. If the soles are simply thin but otherwise concave and non-weight bearing, then I do recommend a hoof hardener to increase the resilience of the sole and protect the foot from stones and uneven ground.
Contracted heels
Contraction or narrowing of the heels can be caused by reduced use of the foot, for instance when the limb is injured and non-weight bearing for a period of time, or a long-toe low-heel foot shape. One or both heels of a foot can be contracted; this can be assessed from the width of the heels at the buttress, which should be similar to that of the hoof approximately 1 inch back from the toe. When a limb is under-used for a period of time, there is a reduction in the blood flow to the foot, causing a drop in moisture content of the hoof capsule, and a lack of pressure from the weight of the horse during movement that would otherwise expand the heels. In horse with long toes, the hoof elongates from toe to heel and the heels generally move closer together.
Contracted heels should be dealt with by first identifying and treating any underlying lameness, such that there is a return to normal weight bearing and movement, and then using an appropriate ‘hoof sealer’ to help retain moisture and prevent drying while having your farrier shoe the horse to allow for expansion of the heels.
Dorsal-palmar foot imbalance and under-run heels
Dorsal-palmar foot balance refers to the angle that the dorsal wall of the hoof makes with the ground. If this angle is too low, an imaginary line drawn parallel to the hoof wall through the centre of the pastern will be broken backwards at a point near the coronary band. Collapsed or under-run heels are commonly found in horses with dorsal-palmar foot imbalance (so-called long-toe low-heel conformation) and are identified by viewing the foot from the side, whereby it is obvious that the heels are short as the coronary band sits close to the ground and the angle of the heels to the ground is more acute that the angle of the toe.
Dorsal-palmar foot imbalance with a broken back hoof-pastern axis and under-run heels results in increased load-bearing of the palmar (back) structures of the foot and can lead to corns and abscesses, as well as placing excess strain on the flexor tendons and ligaments and increasing the risk of the horse developing of navicular syndrome. It is thus very important that this conformation is corrected by appropriate trimming of the foot and support of its palmar structures.
The toe of the hoof wall should be trimmed as short as is practical, often ‘squaring’ the toes to move the break-over point further back. The heels should be taken down only enough to obtain a good load-bearing surface of healthy horn and then shod so that there is more rearward support for the heels. This inevitably means fitting a shoe that overhangs the back of the heels, making it liable to be lost if trodden on by a back foot – this can be prevented by fitting the largest possible over-reach boots to the from feet.
Support for the heels can be improved by using a bar shoe, which spreads the weight bearing across the back of the frog and so reducing compressive forces that would otherwise counteract heel growth. The palmar structures of the foot can also be protected by fitting shoes (or inserts) with a wedge, which effectively raise the heels and so reduce strain on the flexor tendons and associated ligaments. Growth of healthy heel horn can be helped by the feeding of good quality nutritional supplements, together with the application of hoof oils or sealers that help the horn retain moisture and hence structure.
Medial-lateral foot imbalance
Medial-lateral foot balance refers to the relationship between the inside and outside walls of the foot. In trimming a foot, the goal is to achieve a ground surface that is centred beneath the limb and so allowing the hoof to bear the weight of the limb evenly. When there is imbalance, the weight is not evenly distributed and this can lead to excessive concussion of one side of the foot and consequent lameness. Medial-lateral imbalance can be detected by examining the symmetry of the hoof walls when viewed from the front, the extent to which a line drawn through the frog bisects the sole of the foot into two equal sized and shaped halves, and whether the foot lands evenly on both inside and outside walls when the horse walks.
Of all the abnormalities in hoof conformation and structure, medial-lateral imbalance is perhaps the easiest to fix, requiring appropriate trimming of one side of the foot to achieve normal balance. This said, problems can be encountered when there is outward or inward deviation of the limb, such that the foot does not sit squarely at the end of the limb, or when there is a twist in the lower limb. Such cases may require building up of one side in addition to trimming of the other side of the foot.
End note
The correction of abnormalities of foot balance and conformation requires the expertise and skills of a farrier. The views presented in this article represent those of the author and the management of individual cases is best achieved by close collaboration of owner, vet and farrier and the application of appropriate investigative and diagnostic techniques to fully characterise the abnormalities requiring attention.
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